Lello 4080 Musso Lussino Ice Cream Maker – Review

Lello 4080 Lussino Ice Cream MakerThe Lello 4080 Musso Lussino Ice Cream Maker is a 1.5 quart, or 1.4 litre, capacity machine with in built compressor. At $699.00, or £799.00, it certainly isn’t cheap. It makes exceptionally smooth ice cream that is both creamy and dense. Would I recommend it? Absolutely. Let’s have a closer look.

This review will discuss 1. stainless steel construction; 2. amazon’s best sellers list; 3. capacity; 4. the Lello 4080 Musso lussino or the Lello Musso Pola 5030; 5. the ice cream dasher; 6. freezing time; 7. the central pin issue; 8. cleaning; 9. the noise level; 10. the quality of the ice cream; and 10. conclusion.

1.Stainless steel construction
The housing unit on the Lello 4080 Musso Lussino Ice Cream Maker is constructed from stainless steel, which does give the machine an impressive commercial look and feel. The only bits of plastic on the exterior are the freezer bowl lid, the timer knob, and the dasher and condenser buttons.

The machine is made in Italy and carries a one-year manufacturers’ warranty against defects. You tend to expect a certain level of quality and craftsmanship from the ‘Made in Italy’ sign, although it should be noted that this doesn’t guarantee quality.

I have read a positive review on amazon.com where the user has stated that she has had her Lello 4080 Musso Lussino Ice Cream Maker for 8 years without having to get it repaired. She does note, however, that ‘it is taking slightly longer to freeze than when it was brand new’.

At 38 pounds, The Lello 4080 Musso Lussino Ice Cream Maker isn’t as heavy as its big sister, the Lello Musso Pola 5030 Ice Cream Maker, but it still has a nice solid feel when you pick it up. At 12 inches wide, 11 inches high, and 18 inches deep, it is also not as big as the 5030 and can be easily stored in the corner of your kitchen.

Overall, I am very impressed with the appearance of the Lello 4080 Lussino Ice Cream Maker.

Lello 4080 Musso Lussino Ice Cream Maker Lello 4080 Musso Lussino Ice Cream Maker2. A best seller?
It doesn’t always follow that a best selling item is a quality one but I do think that it is useful to look at what other ice cream enthusiasts are up to when deciding which ice cream machine to invest in. The Lello 4080 Musso Lussino Ice Cream Maker is currently the 10th best-selling ice cream machine in amazon’s ice cream machines best sellers list. Here is a list of the top 10 best selling ice cream machines on amazon.com:

  1. Cuisinart ICE 30BC Pure Indulgence 2-Quart Automatic Frozen Yogurt, Sorbet, and Ice Cream Maker
  2. Cuisinart ICE-21 Frozen Yogurt, Ice Cream, & Sorbet Maker
  3. Nostalgia Electrics ICMP400BLUE 4-Quart Electric Ice Cream Maker
  4. Cuisinart ICE-100 Compressor Ice Cream and Gelato Maker
  5. Cuisinart ICE-45 Mix It In Soft Serve 1-1/2-Quart Ice Cream Maker, Whitev
  6. Hamilton Beach 68330R 4-Quart Automatic Ice-Cream Maker, White
  7. MaxiMatic EIM-506 Elite Gourmet 6-Quart Old-Fashioned Pine-Bucket Electric/Manual Ice-Cream Maker
  8. Breville BCI600XL Smart Scoop Ice Cream Maker
  9. Lello Musso Pola 5030 Desert Maker
  10. Lello 4080 Musso Lussino 1.5-Quart Ice Cream Maker

3. Capacity
One thing that I have found disappointing on the Lello 4080 Musso Lussino Ice Cream Maker is the small freezer bowl: it has a 1.5 quart freezer bowl that allows you to churn a maximum of 750g batch of ice cream at a time. For $699.00, I would have liked to have seen a minimum churning capacity of 1000g, similar to the Breville BCI600XL Smart Scoop Ice Cream Maker or the Cuisinart ICE-100 Compressor Ice Cream and Gelato Maker.

What you are really paying for on this machine is the in-built compressor, which allows you to make batch after batch of ice cream without having to freeze the bowl overnight. Because of this, the small 750g capacity isn’t really that big of an issue for the home cook. It can be slightly frustrating, however, if a mix that takes an hour to prepare yields only 750g of ice cream.
4. The Lello 4080 Musso Lussino or the Lello Musso Pola 5030?
I’m often asked whether the Musso Pola 5030 Commercial Ice Cream Maker is better than its little sister, the Lello 4080 Musso Lussino Ice Cream Maker, and which of the two I would recommend. Both machines make exceptional ice cream that is identical in quality. The only difference is the capacity: the Lello 4080 Musso Lussino Ice Cream Maker has a maximum capacity of 750g, wheres the Musso Pola 5030 Commercial Ice Cream Maker has a maximum capacity of 1500g.

Here in the U.K, the Lello 4080 Lussino Ice Cream Maker costs £799.00 and the Musso Pola 5030 Commercial Ice Cream Maker £907.00. I think that if you are willing to spend £799.00 on an ice cream maker, it is worth spending an extra £106.00 and going for the 5030 simply because of the extra capacity. However, in the U.S, the difference in price seems to be a lot bigger at $500.00. It is up to you to judge whether the increased capacity is worth the extra money. Remember, both machines make exceptional ice cream that is identical in quality.

5. The ice cream dasher
The Lello 4080 Musso Lussino Ice Cream Maker comes with an impressive stainless-steel ice cream dasher that looks well-built and durable. The paddle induction motor rotates the dasher at 80 RPM and this relatively slow churn speed doesn’t incorporate a lot of air into the ice cream, producing a thick and dense ice cream.

When you fix the dasher onto the central pin in the freezer bowl, it sits very closely to the side of the bowl. This is very important because as the ice cream mix comes in contact with the cold bowl, it starts to freeze. The dasher then scrapes this frozen mix and incorporates it into the rest of the mix in the centre of the bowl.

If there is a large gap between the side of the bowl and the dasher, a layer of ice will build up and stick to the side of the bowl. This layer then acts as an insulator, slowing the transfer of heat from the mix to the bowl. This will, in turn, increase the time it takes for the mix to freeze. Anything that lengthens the time the mix spends in the machine is a big no no because the longer a mix spends in the machine, the larger the ice crystals are likely to grow and the sandier the texture is likely to be.

For the price of this machine, I would have liked to have seen a spring loaded dasher, similar to that found in the more expensive Emery Thompson CB 350 commercial batch machine. The strong spring in the Emery Thompson pushes the dasher firmly against the side of the bowl and ensures that no ice gets frozen there. A spring-loaded dasher would be a very good addition to a future Lello model.

Lello 4080 Lussino Ice Cream Maker Lello 4080 Musso Lussino Ice Cream Maker6. Freezing time
The time it takes an ice cream maker to churn and freeze a batch of ice cream should be one of the most important factors to consider when deciding which machine to invest in. This is because the longer the residence time (the time a mix spends in the machine), the larger the ice crystals are likely to grow and the sandier the texture is likely to be.

A key goal when making ice cream is to promote the formation of small ice crystals and lots of them. Small ice crystals impart a smooth texture, whereas large ice crystals will impart a sandy, coarse, or grainy texture that will be detectable on the tongue. Marshall et. al. (2003) found that to obtain small ice crystals, it is necessary to have the shortest residence time possible so as to minimise the amount of ice crstals that melt within the freezer bowl itself and then come together to form larger ones. Drewett and Hartel (2007) have also found that residence time has the most pronounced effect on mean ice crystal size.

In my first experiment, it took an impressive 16 minutes for the Lello 4080 Musso Lussino Ice Cream Maker to churn a 693g batch of ice cream. This was achieved by first pre-freezing the bowl for about 20 minutes, by switching on the compressor and leaving it running, before I added the mix. This ensures that the bowl is as cold as possible before the mix is added, which should, in turn, reduce the time it takes to churn a batch of ice cream.

In my second experiment, it took 20 minutes to churn a 738g batch after pre-freezing the bowl for 20 minutes. Let’s have a look at how the 16 and 20 minute freeze times compare to other machines. It is important to note that the more ice cream mix there is in a single batch, the longer it will take to freeze.

Cuisinart ICE-30 – 700g batch 25 minutes.
Cuisinart ICE-100 – 800g batch 40 minutes
Lello Musso Pola 5030 – 1000g batch 13 minutes
Breville BCI600XL Smart Scoop – 732g 30 minutes

The Lello 4080 Musso Lussino Ice Cream Maker takes slightly longer than it’s bigger sister, the Lello Musso Pola 5030 Commercial Ice Cream Maker to churn a batch but it is quicker than the Breville BCI600XL Smart Scoop Ice Cream Maker and the Cuisinart ICE-100 Compressor Ice Cream and Gelato maker, both of which have in-built compressors. The shorter residence time should, in theory, mean that the Lello 4080 is more likely to produce ice cream with smaller ice crystals and smoother texture than both the Cuisinarts and the Breville.

Just to put these machines in perspective, the Emery Thompson CB-350 commercial ice cream maker (the King of commercial ice cream machines) takes an incredible 8 minutes to churn a large 6 quart batch of ice cream.

I was certainly very impressed with the relatively short residence time achieved by the Lello 4080 Musso Lussino Ice Cream Maker.

Lello 4080 Musso Lussino Ice Cream Maker7. The central pin issue
Just like on its bigger sister the Lello Musso Pola 5030, I have had an issue with ice cream falling in the gap between the central pin and the hard plastic that surrounds it.

The instruction manual tells you to ‘not get the central pin wet.’ I found this next to impossible when emptying the machine as no matter how careful I tried to be, bits of ice cream constantly fell on the central pin. This is an issue because if ice cream gets in the gap between the central pin and the hard plastic that surrounds it and then hardens, it will add stress to the motor.

I have read a review on amazon.com where this issue has caused the drive gear to fail on a Lello Muso Pola 5030 machine. The user did state, however, that the machine had been running for 10+ years before the issue occurred.

To help prevent getting any ice cream on the central pin, it is a good idea to remove the dasher from the bowl after the machine has finished churning, which makes emptying the bowl easier and quicker, and then screw the stainless steel bolt back on to the central pin. This will act as a protective layer and help keep any ice cream from reaching the central pin whilst you empty the bowl.

If some ice cream does get into the gap between the central pin and the plastic, you should clean it as quickly as possible to prevent any of the mix from creeping down further into the gap and hardening. If you notice that some of the milk and cream has hardened in the gap, use a fine pin or toothpick to scape off as much of it as you can.

I do find the central pin issue a bit disappointing and a design flaw that you would not expect on a machine this expensive. However, it is also an issue that can be avoided.

Lello 4080 Musso Lussino Ice Cream Maker 8. Cleaning
I have found cleaning and emptying the Lello 4080 Musso Lussino Ice Cream Maker extremely easy. Once the machine has finished churning, it is important to switch off both the dasher and the compressor to ensure that the ice cream doesn’t freeze and stick to the bowl whilst you are emptying it. It is easier to empty the ice cream if you remove the dasher and then screw the bolt back onto the central pin. The bowl allows enough space for a large wooden spoon or spatula to be used to empty the ice cream.

The first time I cleaned the machine, I waited 10 minutes after I had emptied the ice cream and then started wiping it down with a wet sponge. 10 minutes wasn’t quite long enough for the freezer bowl to warm up sufficiently as the water that I had on the sponge froze to the bowl, making cleaning more difficult.

I then waited for a further 10 minutes for the freezer bowl to warm up and had no further issues with water freezing the bowl. I would recommend that you leave the ice cream machine turned off for about 20 minutes before you start wiping it down with a wet sponge.

It is also a good idea to remove as much of the ice cream mix as you can with a spatula before you leave the freezer bowl to warm up for 20 minutes; frozen ice cream is a lot easier and quicker to remove than un-frozen ice cream mix. Once the freezer bowl has warmed sufficiently, it takes a further 5 minutes to clean with a wet sponge, some washing up liquid, and some kitchen towels to dry.

All in all, I have found emptying and cleaning the Lello 4080 Musso Lussino Ice Cream Maker very easy.

Lello 4080 Musso Lussino Ice Cream Maker Lello 4080 Musso Lussino Ice Cream Maker 9. Noise level
The machine is incredibly quiet when churning a batch of ice cream. Unlike the Cuisinart ICE-50 Professional Ice Cream maker and the Cuisinart ICE-30 Ice Cream Maker that make a lot of noise during the churning process, the Lello 4080 Musso Lussino Ice Cream Maker doesn’t make any noise whilst it churns a batch of ice cream.

I’ve noticed that a lot of people are put off from buying certain machines because of the noise they make. Although I appreciate that you might not want to be in the same room as a noisy ice cream maker for 30 minutes, I do not think that the noise level should put a person off buying an ice cream maker, especially if it makes excellent ice cream.

The Cuisinart ICE-30 Ice Cream Maker does make a lot of noise during the churning process but it makes excellent ice cream that is dense, smooth, and creamy. In my view, the quality of the finished ice cream should always be prioritised over the noise a machine makes.

10. Quality of the ice cream
The most important question this review is trying to answer is ‘Does the Lello 4080 Musso Lussino Ice Cream Maker make excellent quality ice cream? The short answer is yes, absolutely. I found that it made excellent ice cream that had a very smooth and creamy texture. Because the dasher spins relatively slowly, the machine doesn’t incorporate a lot of air into the mix, resulting in a nice dense ice cream that is unlike store-bought ice creams.

Does the Lello 4080 Musso Lussino Ice Cream Maker make ice cream that is the same in quality as its more expensive bigger sister the Lello Musso Pola 5030? Again the answer is yes. Both machines make exceptionally smooth, dense, and creamy ice cream that are identical in texture. The only advantage of the Lello Musso Pola 5030 over the Lello 4080 Musso Lussino Ice Cream Maker is the amount of ice cream that it can make in one batch: the Lello Musso Pola 5030 can make a maximum of 1500g per batch whilst the Lello 4080 Musso Lussino Ice Cream Maker can only churn 750g per batch.

Another interesting question that can be addressed here is ‘Does the expensive Lello 4080 Musso Lussino Ice Cream Maker make ice cream that is far superior to that made by the cheaper Breville BCI600XL Smart Scoop, the Cuisinart ICE-100, or the cheaper still Cuisinart ICE-30? The answer is a surprising no. That’s not to say that the 4080 makes bad ice cream, far from it. It’s just that you don’t have to spend a lot of money to make exceptional ice cream at home. The four machines listed in this paragraph all make excellent ice cream that is comparable in quality, despite the shorter residence time in the more expensive Lello 4080 Musso Lussino Ice Cream Maker.

I think this latter point highlights the importance of using a quality recipe and technique over an expensive machine. In my view, making exceptionally smooth, creamy, and dense ice cream at home is 90% dependent on recipe and technique, and only 10% on the machine. You can have the best machine in the world but if you are using a poor recipe, your ice cream will still turn out grainy and coarse. Similarly, I have been able to make ice cream in my Cuisinart ICE-30 Ice Cream Maker that is identical to that made using the 10 times more expensive Lello 4080 Musso Lussino Ice Cream Maker. Again, you don’t have to spend a lot of money on an expensive machine to make exceptional ice cream at home.

Lello 4080 Musso Lussino Ice Cream Maker Lello 4080 Musso Lussino Ice Cream Maker11. Conclusion
Would I recommend the The Lello 4080 Musso Lussino Ice Cream Maker? Yes, absolutely. It makes exceptional ice cream that is smooth, creamy, and dense. However, this machine is not without its faults: the small 750g freezer bowl could, and should, have a bigger capacity and the central pin issue may cause the drive gear some problems if it isn’t kept on top of.

The stainless-steel finish certainly gives the machine a professional look and feel and the in-built compressor can freeze a 693g batch in about 16 minutes. This relatively short residence time contributes significantly to the development of smooth and creamy ice cream by promoting the formation of small ice crystals in your ice cream.

You don’t have to, however, pay a lot of money to make exceptional ice cream at home. The cheaper Cuisinart ICE30 Ice Cream maker, the Breville BCI600XL Smart Scoop Ice Cream Maker and the Cuisinart ICE-100 Compressor Ice Cream and Gelato Maker all make smooth ice cream that is both dense and creamy and identical to that made using the Lello 4080 Musso Lussino Ice Cream Maker.

Pros

  • Powerful in-built compressor that can churn a 693g batch in about 16 minutes.
  • All stainless steel finish.
  • Stainless steel dasher.
  • Quiet.

Cons

  • Expensive.
  • Small 750g maximum capacity per batch.
  • An issue with getting ice cream in the gap between the central pin and the hard plastic that surrounds it.

If you found this review helpful and are thinking of buying the Lello 4080 Musso Lussino Ice Cream Maker, you can support the blog by using the link below to buy your machine from the chaps at amazon.

I hope this review helps.

All the best, Ruben

References
1. Drewett E. M., Hartel R. W., 2007, Ice crystallisation in a scraped surface freezer, Journal of Food Engineering Volume 78, Issue 3. pp 10-60-1066
2. Marshall et al. Ice Cream, sixth Edition, 2003

Breville BCI600XL Smart Scoop Ice Cream Maker

Breville BCI600XL Smart Scoop Ice Cream Maker

The Breville BCI600XL Smart Scoop Ice Cream Maker is a 1 litre, or 1.5 quart, domestic ice cream maker with an in-built compressor. It makes exceptionally smooth ice cream that is both creamy and dense. Would I recommend it? Absolutely. Let’s have a closer look and see how it compares to other machines. This review will discuss: 1. appearance; 2. amazon’s best sellers list; 3. the ice cream churning blade; 4. the machine’s capacity; 5. 12 hardness settings; 6. freezing time; 7. noise level; 8. emptying the freezer bowl; 9. ice cream texture; and 10. my conclusion.

1. Appearance
The Breville BCI600XL Smart Scoop Ice Cream Maker is constructed from stainless steel and is certainly aesthetically pleasing. The control buttons and knob are also constructed from stainless steel and look well made. The digital display on top of the machine that shows the temperature, time, and setting is another feature that looks well-made.

Overall, I am very impressed with the its appearance and construction. It weighs 15.4kg, or 32 pounds, and measures 16.2 x 10.5 x 10.2 inches. It isn’t a very bulky or heavy machine and I haven’t had any problems with storing it in the corner of my kitchen. Breville BCI600XL Smart Scoop Ice Cream Maker2. A best seller?
It doesn’t always follow that a best selling item is a quality one but I do think that it is useful to look at what other ice cream enthusiasts are up to when deciding which ice cream machine to invest in. The Breville BCI600XL Smart Scoop Ice Cream Maker is currently the 8th best-selling ice cream machine in amazon’s ice cream machines best sellers list. Here is a list of the top 10 best selling ice cream machines on amazon.com:

  1. Cuisinart ICE 30BC Pure Indulgence 2-Quart Automatic Frozen Yogurt, Sorbet, and Ice Cream Maker
  2. Cuisinart ICE-21 Frozen Yogurt, Ice Cream, & Sorbet Maker
  3. Nostalgia Electrics ICMP400BLUE 4-Quart Electric Ice Cream Maker
  4. Cuisinart ICE-100 Compressor Ice Cream and Gelato Maker
  5. Cuisinart ICE-45 Mix It In Soft Serve 1-1/2-Quart Ice Cream Maker, Whitev
  6. Hamilton Beach 68330R 4-Quart Automatic Ice-Cream Maker, White
  7. MaxiMatic EIM-506 Elite Gourmet 6-Quart Old-Fashioned Pine-Bucket Electric/Manual Ice-Cream Maker
  8. Breville BCI600XL Smart Scoop Ice Cream Maker
  9. Lello Musso Pola 5030 Desert Maker
  10. Lello 4080 Musso Lussino 1.5-Quart Ice Cream Maker

3. The ice cream churning blade
The churning blade that mixes the ice cream is made of plastic and sadly doesn’t match the machine’s quality exterior. When fitted in the freezer bowl using the central pin, there is a considerable gap between the blade and the side of the bowl. This is an issue because when the ice cream mix comes in contact with the bowl, it freezes to the side. The dasher scrapes this frozen mix and incorporates it into the rest of the mix. If there is a gap between the side of the bowl and the dasher, a layer of frozen mix starts to build up. This layer then acts as an insulator, slowing the transfer of heat from the rest of the mix to the bowl, which will, in turn, increase the time it takes for the ice cream to freeze.

Anything that lengthens the time a mix spends in a machine is detrimental to smooth and creamy texture because the longer the residence time (the time a batch spends in the freezer bowl), the larger the ice crystals are likely to grow and the sandier the texture is likely to be. Although the churning blade on the Breville BCI600XL Smart Scoop Ice Cream Maker isn’t the best I have seen and could certainly be improved, it still managed to make exceptionally smooth and creamy ice cream and shouldn’t put you off this machine. Breville BCI600XL Smart Scoop Ice Cream Maker4. Capacity
The Breville BCI600XL Smart Scoop Ice Cream Maker comes with a stainless steel removable freezer bowl that has a 1.5 quart capacity. This means that you can make a maximum a quart, or a litre, of ice cream at a time. During testing, I was able to easily churn a 886g batch of ice cream that filled a 1 litre plastic container. Although I would personally have liked to have seen a larger 3 quart, or 2 litre, bowl, similar to that on the Cuisinart ICE-30, I think the 1 litre capacity is perfect for the home cook.

If you do intend on making more than a litre of ice cream at a time, say for a large party, you can easily churn another batch straight after the first. It’s a good idea to give the freezer bowl and dasher a rinse between batches so that any ice cream that has melted doesn’t then get re-frozen in the second batch, which would more than likely make ice cream with a sandy texture. Also make sure that the freezer bowl and dasher are completely dry before making the second batch to prevent excess water being incorporated into your ice cream.

5. 12 hardness settings
The Breville BC1600XL Smart Scoop Ice Cream Maker comes with 12 hardness settings that automatically stop the machine when a certain consistency is reached. It also has a manual setting that allows you to stop the machine when you are happy that the mix has achieved the right consistency.

I tried the automatic setting to make gelato and found this a bit underwhelming. It switched itself off after 42 minutes of churning and produced a gelato that was very runny and didn’t have enough air incorporated. The automatic setting doesn’t increase or decrease the churning blade’s revolutions per minute, a feature that would have controlled the amount of air incorporated into a mix, but merely switches itself off when a pre-determined consistency is reached.

Although I found that the automatic gelato setting left a lot to be desired, I found the manual setting perfect to use because the machine kept churning until I was happy with the consistency and switched it off.

I have read some reviews on amazon where people have complained that the sensor on their machine fails to detect when the ice cream is ready. This causes their machine to keep churning until the texture becomes excessively hard and prevents the churning blade from rotating and the drive gear starts making a grinding noise. I would certainly recommend keeping to the manual setting and switching the machine off yourself when you judge that the perfect consistency has been reached. Breville BCI600XL Smart Scoop Ice Cream Maker6. Freezing time
What you are really paying for on this machine is not the stainless-steel finish or the LCD display but the in-built compressor. Unlike the Cuisinart ICE30 which requires the removable bowl be placed in the freezer overnight before you can churn a batch of ice cream, the in-built compressor allows you to churn a batch as soon as the machine is switched on. It is a very good idea, however, to chill the freezer bowl for about 15 minutes before adding the ice cream mix. This insures that the freezer bowl gets as cold as possible before the mix is added, which, in theory, should reduce the time it takes to churn a batch of ice cream.

The Breville BCI600XL Smart Scoop Ice Cream Maker comes with a handy pre-cool button that takes about 15 minutes to get the temperature of the bowl down to -31°C. You simply put the bowl and the dasher in the machine, press the pre-cool button, put the lid on, and leave the machine running. The machine then beeps when the temperature of the bowl reaches about -31°C to let you know it is ready.

Again, the point of chilling the bowl for about 15 minutes before adding the mix is to reduce the time it takes to churn a batch of ice cream. The longer a mix spends in a machine, the larger the ice crystals are likely to grow and the sandier the texture is likely to be. I always recommend that you pre-chilling the bowl before you add your mix.

So how long did the BCI600XL take to churn a batch of ice cream? After chilling the bowl for 15 minutes, it took 30 minutes to churn a 732g batch to a smooth, dense, and creamy consistency. In my second test, it took 15 minutes to chill the freezer bowl and then 42 minutes to churn a 886g batch. The second batch took 12 minutes longer than the first because greater quantities take longer to freeze. Let’s see how these churn times compare to other machines:

Cuisinart ICE-30 – 700g batch 25 minutes.
Cuisinart ICE-100 – 800g batch 40 minutes.
Lello Musso Pola 5030 – 1000g batch 13 minutes.
Lello 4080 Musso Lussino -  738g batch 20 minutes.
DeLonghi GM6000 – 600g batch 30 minutes

The time it takes to freeze a batch of ice cream should always be one of the most important factors to consider when buying a machine. This is because the less time it takes a machine to churn a batch of ice cream, the smaller the ice crystals are likely to grow and the smoother and creamier the texture is likely to be. It isn’t, however, the only factor to consider when buying a machine and a short churning time does not guarantee smooth and creamy texture. The quality of your ingredients, the recipe, and cooking method you use to prepare your mix are, in my opinion, the most important factors that determine texture.

7. Noise level
This machine is incredibly quiet during the churning process. I didn’t notice any grinding noises that are all too often made by domestic ice cream machines when the ice cream starts to harden. I didn’t have any issues with the noise level and was able to comfortably run this machine in my kitchen and have a conversation at the same time.

Again I have read reviews on amazon where users have complained of a loud grinding noise as the ice cream starts to harden. This is a common fault with ice cream makers that occurs when the drive gear struggles to cope with the stress placed on it by the hardened ice cream. I have encountered this issue on the Cuisinart ICE-50BC.

During testing, I found that the Breville BCI600XL Smart Scoop Ice Cream Maker was able to churn a batch of ice cream to a firm consistency that did not put excessive strain on the drive gear. I did not encounter the grinding noise even after 42 minutes of churning.

Mixes that have a low total solids content (milkfat, non-fat milk solids, egg yolks, and sugar) and a high water content are likely to put more strain on the drive gear as more water will freeze during the churning process, which will, in turn, make harder ice cream. I would certainly recommend using a recipe with a high total solids content to try to minimise the strain on the drive gear and to promote a rich, smooth, and creamy texture. Breville BCI600XL Smart Scoop Ice Cream Maker8. Emptying the freezer bowl
The only issue I have had with this machine is emptying the ice cream after it has been churned. Because the plastic pin that the churning blade fits onto in the freezer bowl is fixed in place and cannot be removed, I found it difficult to maneuver my spatula to quickly remove the ice cream. The machine does come with a small plastic spatula to empty the freezer bowl but I found that this was too small and didn’t make emptying the bowl any easier or quicker.

The time it takes to empty the freezer bowl is extremely important and should not be overlooked. The main goal during the churning process is to produce a large number of small ice crystals to promote smooth and creamy texture. When ice cream is removed from the freezer bowl at temperatures between -5 and -6°C, some of these ice crystals melt and then grow larger. Thus, just holding ice cream at room temperature will result in an increase in mean ice crystal size and a decrease in the number of ice crystals present, which is likely to lead to coarse and grainy texture.

Ice crystals will continue to melt until the temperature decreases sufficiently to about -18°C. So the longer it takes you to empty your freezer bowl, the longer the ice cream will be left at room temperature and the more ice crystals will melt and then grow larger when you do eventually put your ice cream in the freezer to harden. It is therefore imperative that you rush like a madman (or madwoman) to remove your ice cream from the bowl and get it into your freezer. Anything that slows this process down is a big disadvantage. Emptying the freezer bowl would be a lot easier and quicker if the plastic central pin in the freezer bowl could be removed. I would certainly like to see this feature on any future Breville upgrade. Breville BCI600XL Smart Scoop Ice Cream Maker9. Ice cream texture
The most important question to ask about any ice cream machine should always be ‘Does it make exceptionally smooth and creamy ice cream?’. If the answer is no, then you should always keep looking, no matter how shiny or aesthetically pleasing the machine is. Despite the poor churning blade and the difficulty in emptying the freezer bowl, the Breville BCI600XL Smart Scoop Ice Cream Maker made ice cream that was exceptionally smooth, creamy and dense.

The automatic gelato setting unfortunately did not match the quality made using the manual setting and should, in my opinion, be avoided. The Breville BCI600XL Smart Scoop Ice Cream Maker made ice cream that is comparable in quality to the more expensive Lello Musso Pola 5030 commercial ice cream machine, the Cuisinart ICE-100, the Lello 4080 Musso Lussino, and my beloved Cuisinart ICE-30. Breville BCI600XL Smart Scoop Ice Cream Maker Breville BCI600XL Smart Scoop Ice Cream Maker10. Conclusion
So would I recommend the Breville BCI600XL Smart Scoop Ice Cream Maker? Absolutely. It makes excellent ice cream that is exceptionally smooth, creamy, and dense. The churning blade rotates relatively slowly and incorporates somewhere between 30% and 40% air, making an ice cream that is incredibly dense and melts slowly in the mouth.

The in-built compressor means that you can switch the machine on and be ready to go, although I always recommend chilling the freezer bowl for about 15 minutes before adding the mix. The stainless steel finish and the digital display certainly make this machine very aesthetically pleasing.

However, this machine isn’t without it’s faults. The non-removable pin in the freezer bowl makes removing the ice cream extremely tricky. The ice cream dasher isn’t the best I have seen and could have been designed to sit closer to the side of the bowl. Although I haven’t encountered any problems with the drive gear, several users have complained of a loud grinding noise as the ice cream starts to harden.

I also don’t think that you need to spend a lot of money in order to make exceptionally smooth and creamy ice cream. Quality ice cream is, in my opinion, 90% dependent on ingredients and recipe and only 10% dependent on the machine. The Cuisinart ICE-30 was my first machine and I would certainly recommend it to anyone who is looking for a first machine at a reasonable price.

What you are paying for on the BCI600XL is the in-built compressor that allows you to churn batch after batch. If having the ability to quickly churn a batch of ice cream isn’t a priority and if you don’t mind freezing the bowl overnight in your freezer, then I would recommend the cheaper Cuisinart ICE30. This machine makes ice cream that is as smooth, creamy, and dense as that made using the BCI600XL.

If you are set on a machine with an in-built compressor, then I would also recommend the Cuisinart ICE-100, or the more expensive Lello 4080 Musso Lussino or the even more expensive Lello Musso Pola 5030.

I hope this review helps. If you are considering buying the Breville BCI600XL and would like to support the blog, please use the link below to purchase your machine from the chaps at amazon.

All the best, Ruben

Pros

  • Nice stainless-steel finish.
  • Exceptional ice cream that is dense, smooth, and creamy.
  • Nice LCD display.

Cons

  • Can only make 1 litre , or 1.5 quarts, of ice cream at a time.
  • Emptying the ice cream can be a bit tricky.
  • The 12 automatic hardness settings didn’t produce the best ice cream and seem unnecessary; the manual setting is perfect though.

Lello Musso Pola 5030 Commercial Ice Cream Maker

Lello Musso Pola 5030 commercial ice cream machineAt $1,199.99 US dollars, or £907.00, the Musso Pola 5030 is a commercial batch ice cream maker aimed predominantly at restaurants and cafes. It makes excellent quality ice cream that is dense, smooth, and creamy but it is not without its faults. Is this machine a good buy for the home cook? My opinion is yes, if cost isn’t an issue. Let’s have a look.

This review will discuss 1. the stainless steel construction; 2. amazon’s ice cream machines best sellers list; 3. the impressive 1.5 quart, or 1.4 litre, capacity; 4. the freezing time; 5. the burning rubber smell; 6. the central pin issue; 7. cleaning; 8. the dasher; 9. the noise level; 10.the quality of the ice cream; and 11. my conclusion.

1. Stainless steel construction
One of the first things I noticed about this machine when perusing amazon was the ‘Made in Italy’ bullet-point. My first reaction was “Hmm, must be a quality product”. Then I opened the box after it was delivered and my first reaction was “Hmm, a quality product”.

The all stainless steel construction does certainly make this machine look impressive. The ice cream dasher and the bolt that fixes it to the machine are also made of stainless steel and both look durable. The only bits of plastic that you find on the exterior of the machine are the freezer bowl lid, the timer dial, and the freeze and churn buttons.

The second thing I noticed, after the excruciating pain, was just how heavy this machine is: it weighs an impressive 32kg, or 72 pounds. It is quite large for a counter-top machine and you will need to make sure that you have enough room in your kitchen to store it: the dimensions are 20 x 14 x 12.2 inches.

The stainless steel finish and its weight certainly get a big thumbs up from me.

Lello Musso pola 5030 commercial ice cream maker2. A best seller?
It doesn’t always follow that a best selling item is a quality one but I do think that it is useful to look at what other ice cream enthusiasts are up to when deciding which ice cream machine to invest in. The Musso Polla 5030 is currently 9th in amazon’s ice cream machines best sellers list. Here is a list of the top 10 best selling ice cream machines on amazon.com:

  1. Cuisinart ICE 30BC Pure Indulgence 2-Quart Automatic Frozen Yogurt, Sorbet, and Ice Cream Maker
  2. Cuisinart ICE-21 Frozen Yogurt, Ice Cream, & Sorbet Maker
  3. Nostalgia Electrics ICMP400BLUE 4-Quart Electric Ice Cream Maker
  4. Cuisinart ICE-100 Compressor Ice Cream and Gelato Maker
  5. Cuisinart ICE-45 Mix It In Soft Serve 1-1/2-Quart Ice Cream Maker, Whitev
  6. Hamilton Beach 68330R 4-Quart Automatic Ice-Cream Maker, White
  7. MaxiMatic EIM-506 Elite Gourmet 6-Quart Old-Fashioned Pine-Bucket Electric/Manual Ice-Cream Maker
  8. DeLonghi GM6000 Gelato Maker with Self-Refrigerating Compressor
  9. Lello Musso Pola 5030 Desert Maker
  10. Lello 4080 Musso Lussino 1.5-Quart Ice Cream Maker

3. 1.4 litres of ice cream per batch
The Musso Pola 5030 has a large 1.89 litre, or 2 quart, bowl, which allows you to make an impressive 1.5 quart, or 1.4 litres, of ice cream at a time. Most domestic ice cream machines, bar the Cuisinart ICE 30, only have the capacity to make a maximum of 1litre of ice cream at a time.

The freezer bowl is built into the stainless steel housing and cannot be removed. The theory is that having a bowl that is built into the machine enhances the heat conduction from the bowl to the compressor, which should decrease the time it takes for the ice cream mix to freeze. This is important because the longer a mix spends in a machine, the bigger the ice crystals are likely to grow and the sandier the texture is likely to be.

The in-built compressor means that it is possible to make one batch of ice cream after another. Lello claim that the Musso Pola 5030 can make ‘up to 6 quarts of ice cream an hour’ but I find this statement a little misleading. Realistically, I think that it is possible to make about 3 litres, or about 3 quarts, of excellent-quality ice cream per hour if you are making the same flavour (making different flavours usually means that you have to clean the machine in between flavours).

During testing, it took me about 15 minutes to pre-chill the freezer bowl before I added the mix.  A 1500g mix took 25 minutes to churn and it took about a minute to empty the machine once it had finished. Churning another 1500g took 25 minutes with another minute to empty the machine. It took me 1 hour and 7 minutes to make 3 litres of ice cream.

Lello Musso Pola 5030 commercial ice cream machine4. Freezing time
In my first test, I pre-chilled the freezer bowl for 15 minutes by leaving the machine running with the compressor switched on before I added the mix. This ensures that the freezer bowl gets as cold as possible before the mix is added, which should reduce the time it takes to churn a batch of ice cream. It then took an impressive 13 minutes to churn a 1000g batch to a thick and creamy consistency.

In my second test, I again pre-chilled the freezer bowl for 15 minutes and it took 25 minutes to churn a 1500g batch. Although the 1500g batch took longer, the consistency of the ice cream was exactly the same as the first 1000g batch: both were dense and extremely smooth and creamy.

This 13 minute freezing time compares well to the larger Emery Thompson CB-350 (the Cristiano Ronaldo of ice cream machines) commercial batch ice cream machine, which takes only 8 minutes to churn a 6 quart batch. The Musso Polla 5030 freezes a batch of ice cream faster than the Cuisinart ICE100 (40 minutes for a 900g mix) and the Breville BCI600XL Smart Scoop (30 minutes for a 732g mix), both of which are domestic ice cream machines with in-built compressors.

Again, the time it takes a machine to freeze a batch of ice cream is extremely important because the quicker a batch is frozen, the smoother and creamier the texture is likely to be.

The large 1.4 litre bowl and the impressive 13-minute churn time are the two points that have most impressed me about this machine.
5. Burning rubber smell
An issue I have had with this machine is the burning rubber smell that develops at around 26 minutes of churning a 1500g batch; I have had this issue on two consecutive occasions. After checking the instruction manual, I noticed ‘To avoid breaking the drive gear, do not let the ice cream harden excessively‘.

What I found surprising was that the drive gear on this commercial ice cream machine struggled after 26 minutes when the consistency was firm but not yet excessively hard. This issue does lead me to wonder whether the 5030 will be able to cope with the constant churning of 1500g batches in a busy commercial environment.

The Lello Musso Pola 5030 does make ice cream with exceptionally smooth and creamy texture after 25 minutes and I do think this issue can be minimised by ensuring that a large 1500g batch isn’t left in the machine for any longer than 26 minutes. I only encountered this problem when I churned a 1500g batch. I did not notice a burning rubber smell when I churned a 1000g mix for 30 minutes.

6. The central pin
I have also had an issue with preventing ice cream from dripping onto the central pin on which the dasher sits. The instruction manual tells you to ‘not get the central pin wet’ but I found this next to impossible when emptying the machine. This is an issue because there is a gap between the central pin and the solid plastic that surrounds it. If ice cream gets in this gap and hardens, it will add stress to the motor. I have read a review on amazon where hardened ice cream between the central pin and the hard plastic caused the drive gear to fail. In the same review, however, the user does also state that ‘The machine has been running for 10+ years’, which is good to read.

Lello Musso Pola 5030 commercial ice cream machineTo help prevent getting any ice cream on the central pin, it is a good idea to remove the dasher, once the ice cream has been churned, and screw the stainless steel bolt back onto the central pin before emptying the ice cream. This will act as a protective layer and help keep any ice cream from reaching the central pin.

If you notice that ice cream has got into the gap and hardened, use a fine pin or toothpick to scape off as much of the hardened mix as you can.

I do find the central pin issue a bit disappointing and a design flaw that you would not expect on a commercial machine this expensive. However, it is also an issue that can be avoided.

7. Cleaning
I have found cleaning and emptying the Musso Pola 5030 extremely easy. Once the machine has finished churning, it is important to switch off both the dasher and the compressor to ensure that the ice cream doesn’t freeze to the bowl whilst you are emptying it. The large bowl means that there is plenty of space to easily manoeuvre a big wooden spoon to empty the ice cream.

The first time I cleaned the machine, I waited 10 minutes after I had emptied the ice cream and then started wiping it down with a wet sponge. This wasn’t quite long enough for the freezer bowl to warm up sufficiently as the water that I had on the sponge froze to the bowl, making cleaning more difficult.

I then waited a further 10 minutes for the freezer bowl to warm up and had no further issues with water freezing the bowl. It is therefore a good idea to leave the ice cream machine turned off for about 20 minutes before you start wiping it down with a wet sponge.

It is also a good idea to remove as much of the ice cream mix as you can with a spatula before you leave the freezer bowl to warm up for 20 minutes. Once the freezer bowl has warmed sufficiently, it takes a further 5 minutes to clean with a wet sponge, some washing up liquid, and some kitchen towels to dry.

All in all, I have found emptying and cleaning the machine very easy.

Lello Musso pola 5030 commercial ice cream machine8. The dasher
The Musso Polla 5030 comes with an impressive stainless steel dasher that looks well-built and durable. It also comes with a heavy bolt that is used to fix the dasher to the machine.

When you fix in the dasher with the bolt, it sits very closely to the side of the the freezer bowl. This is very important because when your ice cream mix comes in contact with the bowl, it freezes to the side. The dasher scrapes this frozen mix and incorporates it into the rest of the mix. If there is a large gap between the side of the bowl and the dasher, a layer of ice starts to build up there. This layer then acts as an insulator, slowing the transfer of heat from the mix to the bowl. This will, in turn, increase the time it takes for your mix to freeze. Anything that lengthens the time the mix spends in the machine is detrimental  to your chances of making smooth and creamy ice cream because the longer a mix spends in the machine, the larger the ice crystals are likely to grow and the sandier the texture is likely to be.

For the price of this machine, I would have liked to have seen a spring loaded dasher, similar to that found in the more expensive Emery Thompson CB 350 commercial batch machine. The strong spring in the CB350 pushes the dasher firmly against the side of the bowl and ensures that no ice gets frozen there. A spring-loaded dasher would certainly be a good addition to a future Lello model.

Lello musso pola 5030 commercial ice cream machineLello Musso pola 5030 commercial ice cream maker9. Noise level
The machine is incredibly quiet when churning a batch of ice cream. I have noticed that it starts to make a slight noise after about 25 minutes when the motor starts to struggle with the hardened ice cream. I haven’t found the noise this machine makes an issue.

10. The quality of the ice cream
Coming on to the most important question ‘Does the Musso Pola 5030 make good quality ice cream? My short answer is yes, absolutely. I found that with a 1000g batch, it made excellent-quality ice cream that was dense and had a very smooth and creamy texture. The dasher’s design and relatively low revolutions per minute, the Lello Musso Pola 5030 doesn’t incorporate a lot of air into the mix, resulting in a nice dense ice cream. I haven’t measured the amount of air this machine incorporates during the churning process but I would guess it to be somewhere between 30-40%.

The machine produced equally dense, smooth, and creamy ice cream, when it was filled to maximum capacity with a 1500g batch.

lelo musso pola 5030 commercial ice cream makerlello musso pola 5030 commercial ice cream maker11.Conclusion
Would I recommend this machine to the restaurant or cafe owner? Yes, absolutely. I think this would be a good machine for the restaurant or cafe owner to start with to try the concept before moving on to a larger machine once demand increases.

Would I recommend this machine to the home cook? Yes, but only if money isn’t an issue. If money isn’t an issue and if making a lot of ice cream in a short period of time is your priority, then this commercial machine with an in-built compressor would certainly be a good choice.

However, you don’t have to spend a lot of money on an expensive machine to make excellent-quality ice cream at home. The Cuisinart ICE30 makes ice cream that is comparable in quality to the Musso Polla 5030 and is an excellent machine for the home cook on a budget.

What you are paying for on the Musso Polla 5030 is 1. the impressive in-built compressor; and 2. the impressive 1.5 quart freezer bowl.

The in-built compressor can freeze a 1000g batch in about 13 minutes and a 1500g batch in about 25 minutes. This relatively short residence time (or the time the mix spends in the machine) contributes to the development of smooth and creamy ice cream by promoting the formation of small ice crystals: the longer a mix spends in a machine, the larger the ice crystals are likely to grow and the sandier the texture is likely to be.

Having an in-built compressor also means that you can make batch after batch of ice cream. This is a big advantage over machine like the Cuisinart ICE 30 that don’t have an in-built compressor and require the bowl to be frozen overnight before you can make a batch of ice cream.

This machine is, however, by no means perfect. The burning rubber smell and the central pin issue are certainly two points that could be improved and need to be kept on top of.

If you are a home cook looking for an ice cream machine with an in-built compressor at a more reasonable price, I would recommend either the Cuisinart ICE100 or the Breville BCI600XL Smart Scoop. Both make excellent-quality ice cream that is dense, smooth, and creamy. If you are a seasoned ice cream maker or need to make a lot of ice cream at home AND money isn’t an issue, then I would certainly recommend the Musso Pola 5030.

If you found this review helpful and are thinking of buying the Musso Polla 5030, you can support the blog by using the link below to buy your machine from the chaps at amazon.

Hope that review helps.

All the best, Ruben

Pros

  • Powerful in-built compressor that can churn a 1000g batch in about 12 minutes.
  • Impressive 1.4 litre, or 1.5 quart, capacity.
  • All stainless steel finish.
  • Stainless steel dasher.
  • Quiet.

Cons

  • Ridiculously expensive.
  • The central pin issue.
  • A burning rubber smell after about 26 minutes when you churn a large 1500g batch.

Why are stabilizers used in ice cream?

Stabilizers in Ice CreamWhat are ice cream stabilizers?

Stabilizers are hydrocolloids that are water-soluble, i.e. they disperse in water, and are commonly used in ice cream making. Stabilizers extensively used in the ice cream industry include guar gum, locust bean gum, carboxy, ethyl cellulose (CMC), sodium and propyleneglycol alginates, xanthan, gelatin, and carrageenan (Goff and Hartel, 2013). These stabilizers are derived from plants, bacteria, and animal by-products. Although derived from natural sources, stabilizers are considered food additives under European law.

Plants

Most stabilizers used in ice cream making are of plant origin. These include sodium alginate (E401) extracted from brown seaweeds, carrageenans (E407) extracted from red seaweeds, locust bean gum (E410) and guar gum (E412) extracted from tree seeds, pectin (E440) extracted from citrus peel and apple pomace, carboxymethyl cellulose (CMC) (E466) extracted from cotton and wood pulp, and sodium (E401) and propylene glycol (E477) alginates extracted from kelp.

Bacteria

Xanthan (E415), a bacterial polysacharide produced by the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris, is used as a stabilizer in ice cream making.

Animal by-products

Gelatin (E441), a polypeptide of animal origin (mostly from bones, bovine hides, and pig skin) is also used as a stabilizer. Gelatin was traditionally used as a stabilizer in ice cream making but has now largely been replaced by polysaccharide hydrocolloids in ice cream making. So we know that stabilizers are food additives that are derived from plants, bacteria, and animal by-products.  Let’s turn now to why stabilizers are used in ice cream making.

Why are stabilizers added to ice cream?

So just why are stabilizers added to ice cream? According to Goff and Hartel (2013), the primary purposes for using stabilizers in ice cream are to:

  • increase mix viscosity;
  • retard ice crystal and lactose crystal growth during storage;
  • help prevent shrinkage of the ice cream during storage and
  • reduce the rate of meltdown.

Let’s look at each of these points individually.

Increase mix viscosity

Mix viscosity can be loosely defined as the thickness of the ice cream mix. Generally speaking, the thicker and more viscous a mix is, the better the texture is likely to be. A certain level of viscosity is also essential for proper whipping and retention of air that is incorporated during the churning process, and for good body and texture in the ice cream (Goff and Hartel, 2013). Increasing the concentration of stabilizer, protein, fat, and total solids in a mix will increase viscosity, with stabilizers having the greatest effect on mix viscosity (Goff and hartel, 2013). Concentrating a mix by evaporating some of the water will also increase mix viscosity. I have found that heating a mix at around 71.4°C for 60 minutes denatures whey proteins, which contributes significantly to smooth and creamy texture, and also increases mix viscosity thus reducing the need for stabilizers.

Retard ice crystal growth during storage

All ice cream will eventually become sandy and coarse as the ice crystals grow during storage. Small ice crystals, essential for smooth and creamy texture and developed during the whipping process, will eventually grow into large crystals that are detectable on the tongue. These crystals can be easily seen when you open an ice cream tub that has been left in the freezer for months and find large bits of ice on your ice cream.

Stabilizers are added to ice cream to slow down the rate at which ice crystals grow during storage. Stabilizers retard ice crystal growth by slowing the rate of diffusion of water to the surfaces of growing crystals (Goff and Hartel, 2013). Although stabilizers keep ice crystals smaller for longer during storage, they actually have little (Caldwell et al., 1992) or no (Sutton and Wilcox, 1998a,b) impact on the ice crystal size distribution in ice cream right after it has been churned in the machine and also little or no impact on initial ice crystal growth during quiescent freezing and hardening (Flores and Goff, 1999a), but they do limit the rate of growth of ice crystals during recrystalisation (Flores and Goff, 1999b).

So, we know that small ice crystals are essential for smooth and creamy texture (see my post on ice crystal size effect on texture). Stabilizers do not have an effect on the size of ice crystals at the time the ice cream is churned in the machine. This means that adding stabilizers will not promote the formation of small ice crystals when the ice cream is made. Ice crystals will grow over time and the bigger they grow, the sandier the texture becomes. The longer ice cream is left in the freezer, the bigger ice crystals grow. Stabilizers are added to retard this ice crystal growth so that the texture stays smoother for longer.

Because stabilizers do not have an effect on ice crystal size when ice cream is made, ice cream that is freshly made and eaten within a short time does not really need added stabilizers. Stabilizers are mainly added to ice cream to increase its shelf life in the supermarket by keeping ice crystals smaller for longer. That is why you rarely find added stabilizers in good ice cream parlours where the ice cream is freshly made, consumed within a short period of time after it has been made, and not stored for long periods of time.

Help prevent shrinkage of the ice cream during storage

Shrinkage can be seen in ice cream that has been stored for long periods of time and has contracted or ‘deflated’ so that it no longer touches the sides or the lid of the container. Shrinkage is sometimes noticeable when you open an ice cream tub that has been left in the freezer for a while and notice that it has deflated and looks somewhat flat. Shrinkage results from a loss of air bubbles as they come together and begin to form continuous channels, eventually leading to collapse of the product itself into the channels (Turan et al., 1999). Stabilizers are added to ice cream to slow down the rate of shrinkage.

Reduce the rate of meltdown

The melting rate of ice cream is of great importance; no one likes an ice cream that quickly turns to slush as you are eating it. Added stabilizers increase the melting resistance of ice cream due to their water-holding and microviscosity enhancement ability (Goff and Hartel, 2013).

Ice Cream defects caused by stabilizers

Although stabilizers have many beneficial functions in ice cream, too much stabilizer can have adverse effects on texture. These include a gummy or sticky texture that is often slow to melt and a heavy or putty-like texture.

Conclusion

Although stabilizers have many beneficial effects on ice cream, I have found that extremely smooth and creamy ice cream can be made at home without the need for added stabilizers. The beneficial effects of added stabilizers can be easily achieved by heating a mix to somewhere around 71.4°C and keeping it there for 60 minutes. This increases mix viscosity and improves the water-holding capacity of protein. The increased milkfat used in home made ice cream also plays a similar role to added stabilizers in that it will retard or reduce the rate at which ice crystals grow during storage, keeping the smooth and creamy texture for longer. I still maintain that these food additives should not be used in ice cream and that the main reason they are added to commercial ice cream is to allow companies to keep their ice cream on supermarket shelves for longer. Because us home-made ice cream enthusiasts devour our home-made ice cream in a matter of days, we don’t need to store it in the freezer for months and months and do not, therefore, need to add stabilizers. I hope that helps. All the best, Ruben.

References:

Bahramparvar, M. and M Tehrani. 2011. Application and functions of stabilizers in ice cream, Food Reviews International, 27:4, 389-407

Caldwell, K. and D. Goff, and D. Stanley, 1992. A low temperature scanning electron microscopy study of ice cream. 1. Techniques and general microstructure. Food Struc. 11:1-9

Clarke, C., The Science of Ice Cream, 2004

Flores, A. and D. Goff 1999a. Ice crystal size distributions in dynamically frozen model solutions and ice cream as affected by stabilizers. J. Dairy Sci. 82:1399-1407.

Flores, A. and D. Goff, 1999b. Recrystallisation in ice cream after constant and cycling temperature storage conditions as affected by stabilizers. J. Dairy Sci. 82:1408-1415

Goff, D. and R. Hartel, Ice Cream, Seventh Edition, 2013

Sutton, R. and J. Wilcox, 1998a. Recrystallisation in model ice cream solutions as affected by stabilizer concentration, J. Food Science. 63:9-11

Sutton, R. and J. Wilcox, 1998b. Recrystallisation in ice cream as affected by stabilizers. J. Food Science. 63:104-197

Turan, S. and R Bee. 1999. Measurement of gas phase morphology in ice cream. In Bubbles in Food, pp. 183-189.

Cuisinart ICE-100 Compressor Ice Cream and Gelato Maker

Cuisinart ICE-100 Ice Cream and Gelato Maker
A BIG improvement on the ICE-50
I wrote a blog post a while ago discussing the shortcomings of the Cuisinart ICE-50. It looks like the chaps at Cuisinart have acted on customer feedback and launched an upgrade: the Cuisinart ICE-100 Compressor Ice Cream and Gelato Maker. The primary reason the ICE-50 made such a hideous grinding noise was that the motor wasn’t powerful enough to rotate the dasher as the ice cream started to harden. The motor arm has now been moved underneath the bowl, which gives the Cuisinart ICE-100 Compressor Ice Cream and Gelato Maker more power to drive the dasher. I haven’t experienced a problem with the dasher grinding and stopping as the ice cream hardens in the ICE-100.

The second improvement is the noise level. Whereas the grinding and squeaking of the ICE-50 could be heard for miles around, the Cuisinart ICE-100 Compressor Ice Cream and Gelato Maker is much quitter and you can easily sit in the same room with the machine churning away.

I appreciate that noise level can be an issue if you are working in a busy restaurant kitchen but I don’t think the noise a machine makes whilst it churns should be a factor for the home cook to consider when buying an ice cream maker. I am more than happy to use a machine that is noisy during the churning process, just like the Cuisinart ICE-30, but produces exceptionally smooth and creamy ice cream.

Cuisinart ICE-100 Ice Cream and Gelato MakerA best seller?
It doesn’t always follow that a best selling item is a quality one but I still think that it is useful to look at what other ice cream enthusiasts are up to when deciding which ice cream machine to invest in. The Cuisinart ICE-100 Compressor Ice Cream and Gelato Maker is currently 4th in amazon’s ice cream machines best sellers list. Here is a list of the top 10 best selling ice cream machines on amazon.com:

  1. Cuisinart ICE 30BC Pure Indulgence 2-Quart Automatic Frozen Yogurt, Sorbet, and Ice Cream Maker
  2. Cuisinart ICE-21 Frozen Yogurt, Ice Cream, & Sorbet Maker
  3. Nostalgia Electrics ICMP400BLUE 4-Quart Electric Ice Cream Maker
  4. Cuisinart ICE-100 Compressor Ice Cream and Gelato Maker
  5. Cuisinart ICE-45 Mix It In Soft Serve 1-1/2-Quart Ice Cream Maker, Whitev
  6. Hamilton Beach 68330R 4-Quart Automatic Ice-Cream Maker, White
  7. MaxiMatic EIM-506 Elite Gourmet 6-Quart Old-Fashioned Pine-Bucket Electric/Manual Ice-Cream Maker
  8. DeLonghi GM6000 Gelato Maker with Self-Refrigerating Compressor
  9. Lello Musso Pola 5030 Desert Maker
  10. Lello 4080 Musso Lussino 1.5-Quart Ice Cream Maker

Ice cream and gelato paddle
The Cuisinart ICE-100 Compressor Ice Cream and Gelato Maker comes with both an ice cream and a gelato paddle. The idea is that because of its shape, the gelato paddle will incorporate less air into the ice cream during the churning process and make a dense ice cream with somewhere between 30% and 40% overrun. The ice cream paddle will incorporate slightly more air and will make an ice cream that is slightly lighter in texture.

During testing, I found that the gelato paddle made excellent ice cream with creamy, dense texture, which I preferred to the lighter ice cream made using the ice cream paddle. Both the ice cream and the gelato paddle made batches that were extremely smooth and creamy.

The 1.5 litre removable bowl
My only complaint about this machine is that I would have liked to have seen the same 2-litre bowl found in the ICE-30 in the ICE-100. The 1.5 litre removable bowl allows you to make no more than a litre of ice cream in one batch. The advantage of having a machine with an in-built compressor is that you can make batch-after-batch of ice cream without the need to freeze the bowl overnight. You will have to prepare each batch individually though, which will take more time. This remains the only issue I have with the machine. I would still like to see a 2 litre removable bowl on a future machine with an in-built compressor.Cuisinart ICE-100 Ice Cream and Gelato Maker Cuisinart ICE-100 Ice Cream and Gelato MakerChurning time
It took about 40 minutes for the machine to churn a batch of ice cream and get the temperature down to around -5°C. You can serve the ice cream directly after the machine finished churning but the consistency will resemble something similar to soft-serve ice cream and will melt relatively quickly. Commercial ice cream is served at around -15°C and I would recommend placing your ice cream in the freezer for about 4 hours after it has been churned. This will give the ice cream a firmer and more scoopable texture.

The 40 minute freezing time isn’t bad and is one of the fastest for a machine with an in-built compressor, although not as good as the 20-22 minutes it takes the ICE-30 to freeze a 1 litre batch (a commercial Emery Thompson ice cream machine takes about 8 minutes to churn a batch of ice cream).

The time it takes for a machine to churn a batch is very important as the longer a batch spends in a machine, the bigger the ice crystals are likely to grow and the sandier the texture is likely to be. I would strongly recommend switching the machine on and leaving it running with the bowl in place for about 15 minutes before you add the mix. This will freeze the bowl and help to increase heat transfer from the mix to the bowl, which will in turn mean that the mix is frozen quicker. The quicker you can freeze your batch of ice cream, the smaller the ice crystals are likely to be and the creamier the texture.

Appearance and cleaning
The machine comes in a nice stainless steel finish and isn’t an eye sore in the kitchen. It is a fairly large machine so you will need some room in your kitchen to store it. Cleaning the machine is very easy as the bowl and dasher are the only things that come in contact with the machine and are both easily removed.

Ice cream quality
As with any ice cream machine, the most important characteristic should always be the quality of the finished ice cream. The Cuisinart ICE-100 Compressor Ice Cream and Gelato Maker is the only machine with an in-built compressor that I have tried that makes excellent ice cream with a smooth, creamy, and dense texture. The ICE-100 is also the only machine I have tried that makes ice cream comparable in quality to that made in my beloved ICE-30. I didn’t try any of the recipes that came with the machine so I can’t say that it will always make excellent ice cream. A good ice cream mix is just as important as a good machine. You can use the best machine in the world but if you don’t have a good ice cream mix, the texture is still likely to be sandy and grainy. I used my Roasted Almond Ice Cream recipe when I tested this machine. The recipe does involve a lot of work but the smooth and creamy results are, I think, makes the sweat and tears worth it.

Cuisinart ICE-100 Ice Cream and Gelato MakerConclusion
So, would I recommend the Cuisinart ICE-100 Compressor Ice Cream and Gelato Maker? Absolutely. I still think that machines with an in-built compressor simply aren’t worth the extra money because you can make excellent ice cream in the cheaper ICE-30 model that doesn’t have an in-built compressor. I appreciate that compressor machines are more convenient to use and allow you to make batch after batch but I still don’t think these machines are worth the extra money.

The ICE-30 still remains my number 1 machine and I recommend it every time someone asks me for a recommendation. However, if you are set on buying a machine with an in-built compressor, the Cuisinart ICE-100 Compressor Ice Cream and Gelato Maker is one of the few compressor machine that I have tried that makes ice cream comparable in quality to that made using the ICE-30.

If you don’t mind freezing your bowl overnight before making your ice cream and are interested in making only one batch at a time, definitely go for the ICE-30 at more than half the price of the ICE-100. If money is not an issue and if you are looking for a convenient machine with an in-built compressor that will make batch-after-batch, I would certainly recommend the Cuisinart ICE-100 Compressor Ice Cream and Gelato Maker.

If you found this review helpful and are thinking about buying the Cuisinart ICE-100 Compressor Ice Cream and Gelato Maker, you can support the blog by purchasing your machine from the chaps at amazon.com using the link below. All orders are processed and delivered by those chaps at amazon.

Pros
  • Excellent smooth and creamy ice cream texture.
  • 2 paddles; a gelato paddle that incorporates less air and makes a denser ice cream and an ice cream paddle that incorporates more air and makes a slightly lighter ice cream.
  • In-built compressor means that you don’t have to freeze your bowl overnight before making your ice cream. This is also good if you intend on making a lot of ice cream for a party or large group. I recommend switching the machine on and leaving it to chill the bowl for 15 minutes before you add your mix.
  • Nice stainless steel finish.
  • Quieter than the ICE-50.
 Cons
  • Still no 2 litre bowl. The 1.5 litre bowl allows you to make no more than 1 litre at a time.
  • More than twice the price of the ICE-30.