27 MINUTE READ 
I’ve been testing the Nemox 5K Crea, available from amazon*, for close to a month now and have found that it makes exceptional ice cream that is extremely smooth, dense, and creamy. The dasher rotates at a relatively low 70 revolutions per minute (rpm), resulting in dense ice cream with about 7% air. It has a maximum capacity of 1.25kg, 1120 ml (1.18 quart), of ice cream mix, producing about 1200 ml (1.27 quart) of ice cream in 12 minutes, although I have managed to freeze 1527g, about 1500ml (1.59 quart) of ice cream mix, producing about 1600ml (1.69 quart) of ice cream with about 7% air in 15 minutes. It can make both ice cream and gelato, freeze batches back-to-back, and is very easy to clean. My only complaint is that the dasher could do a better job at dispersing the ice cream as it freezes in the barrel.
You can view the top selling ice ice cream machines on amazon by clicking here*.
My Review Method
I’ve used a slightly unconventional method of review. Let me explain. The best ice creams in the world have a smooth and creamy texture. This texture, primarily associated with a high milk fat content, is also determined by the average size of the ice crystals: smooth and creamy ice cream requires the majority of ice crystals to be small. If many crystals are large, the ice cream will be perceived as being coarse or icy.
Because ice crystal size is a critical factor in the development of smooth texture, I’ve discussed the key principles that underpin ice crystal formation and growth, and how these principles are affected by the features of the Nemox 5K Crea. By having an understanding of these key principles, I hope that you’ll be in a better position to evaluate this machine. If you’re short on time, you can skip to the Summary of this review. If you fancy a nice long read, then sit back, grab yourself a hot cup of cocoa, and the enjoy this comprehensive review. 🙂
Table of Contents
1. Ice Crystals in Ice Cream
Ice crystals range in size from about 1 to over 150 μm in diameter, with an average size of about 25 μm in commercial ice cream (Berger et al., 1972; Caldwell et al., 1992; Donhowe & Hartel, 1996; Hagiwara & Hartel, 1996; Hartel, 1996; Koxholt et al., 2000; Marshall et al, 2003; Sofjan & Hartel, 2004; Inoue et al., 2008; Kusumaatmaja, 2009). Small ice crystals, around 10 to 20 µm in size, give ice cream its smooth and creamy texture, whereas larger ice ice crystals, greater than 50 μm, impart a grainy texture (Marshall et al., 2003; Eisner et al, 2005; Drewett & Hartel, 2007). To produce ice cream with the smallest possible ice crystals, it’s important to develop an understanding of ice formation (known as crystallisation) during the freezing of ice cream.
Ice cream is frozen in two stages, the first being a dynamic process where the mix is frozen in a scraped-service freezer (SSF) (an ice cream machine) whilst being agitated by the rotating dasher, a mixing device with sharp scraper blades attached, to incorporate air, destabilise the fat, and form ice crystals. Upon exiting the SSF, the ice cream, at about -5°C to -6°C (23°F to 21.2°F) and with a consistency similar to soft-serve ice cream, undergoes static freezing where it is hardened in a freezer without agitation until the core reaches a specified temperature, usually -18°C (-0.4°F). Cook & Hartel (2010) argue that the dynamic freezing stage is arguably the most important step in creating ice cream because this is the only stage in which ice crystals are formed.
1.1 Nucleation
During dynamic freezing, the ice cream mix is added to the SSF at between 0°C and 4°C (32°F and 39.2°F). As the refrigerant absorbs the heat in the mix, a layer of water freezes to the cold barrel wall causing rapid nucleation, that is the birth of small ice crystals (Hartel, 2001). For smooth and creamy ice cream, it’s important to have a high rate of nucleation so as to form as many small ice crystals as possible (Hartel, 1996). The more ice crystals that are formed during dynamic freezing, the more will be preserved during static freezing, resulting in a smaller average crystal size and smoother texture (Cook & Hartel, 2010).
1.2 Growth and Recrystallisation
The crystals that form at the cold barrel wall are then scraped off by the rotating scraper blades and dispersed into the centre of the barrel, where warmer mix temperatures cause some crystals to melt and others to grow and undergo recrystallisation. Recrystallisation is defined as “any change in number, size, shape, orientation or perfection of crystals following completion of initial solidification” (Fennema, 1973). The greater the extent of growth and recrystallisation in the centre of the barrel, the larger the ice crystals will be. Russell et al. (1999) found that crystallisation during the freezing of ice cream is dominated by recrystallisation and growth and that these mechanisms appear to be more important than nucleation in determining the final crystal population.
2. Factors Affecting Nucleation, Growth, and Recrystallisation
2.1 The Scraper Blades
Nucleation is affected by the rate of heat transfer from the mix to the cold freezer barrel, with a high rate of heat transfer promoting a high rate of nucleation (Hartel, 1996; Goff & Hartel, 2013). Because heat travels more slowly through ice than stainless steel, ice build up on the freezer barrel wall acts as an insulator and lowers the rate of heat transfer.
Keeping the scraper blades sharp and close to the barrel wall helps promote a high rate of heat transfer by scraping off any ice that forms at the barrel wall (Goff & Hartel, 2013). Ben Lakhdar et al. (2005) found that a large gap between the scraper blades and the barrel wall slowed heat transfer. This was attributed to a permanent ice layer, which forms between the blades and the wall only when the gap is high enough (3mm). When the gap is 1mm, the ice layer is not strong enough and is periodically removed from the wall.
Does the Nemox 5k Crea leave a gap between the scraper blades and the barrel wall?
The Nemox 5K Crea comes with a heavy stainless steel dasher that has 2 protruding arms. Attached to these arms are 2 alimentary plastic scraper blades, which clip on and off very easily for cleaning; I also got a spare pair of blades with my machine. When the dasher is slid onto the transmission shaft inside the barrel, the blade on the longest arm sits against the barrel wall, and the blade on the shortest arm against the bottom of the barrel. Both blades sit firmly against the barrel without leaving a gap, thereby promoting efficient heat transfer during dynamic freezing.
2.2 Air In Ice Cream
The amount of air incorporated into a mix during dynamic freezing, referred to as the overrun, affects the size of the ice crystals, with slightly larger ice crystals observed at a lower overrun (Arbuckle, 1977; Flores & Goff, 1999b). Flores and Goff (1999a) suggested that overrun below 50% does not influence ice crystal size, but the amount of air cells at 70% overrun is just enough to prevent collisions among ice crystals, which can result in an increase in crystal size. Sofjan & Hartel (2004) found that increasing the overrun in ice cream (from 80% to 100% or 120%) led to the formation of smaller ice crystals, although the effect was relatively small.
How much air does the Nemox 5K Crea whip into ice cream?
The dasher on the 5K Crea rotates at a relatively low 70 rpm, compared to typical speeds of 100-200 rpm in commercial machines. I’ve found that this produces extremely dense ice cream with about 7% air when 1.25kg, 1120 ml (1.18 quart), of mix is frozen, and about 10% air for 1187g, 1095ml (1.16 quart), of ice cream mix. This compares to about 60% air incorporated by my Emery Thompson CB-200, which produces ice cream that is lighter and airer. Despite slightly larger ice crystals being observed in ice creams with a lower overrun, I personally prefer the denser, chewier texture that results from a low overrun.
Does the Nemox 5K Crea make gelato?
Yes, the Nemox 5k Crea does make gelato. Italian-style ice cream is referred to as gelato, the Italian word for ice cream. There are, however, significant differences between traditional gelato and regular ice cream: gelato is typically lower in milk fat (4-8% in gelato, 10-18% in ice cream), total solids (36-43% in gelato, 36->40% in ice cream), and air (20-40% in gelato, 25-120% in ice cream) but higher in sugar (up to 25% in gelato, 14-22% in ice cream) (Goff & Hartel, 2013). Gelato also tends to be softer, more pliable and stickier than ice cream, and is served at warmer temperatures. Because the Nemox 5K Crea incorporates between 7-10% air, well below the typical 20-40% range for gelato, as long as you use a gelato recipe, it will happily produce gelato.
2.3 The Freezer Barrel Wall Temperature
The temperature at the freezer barrel wall has also been found to affect the rate of nucleation and recrystallisation. Drewett & Hartel (2007) found that decreasing the coolant temperature at the freezer barrel wall caused higher ice crystal nucleation rates and reduced recrystallisation in the warmer bulk mix, which helped the ice crystals remain small. Similarly, Russell et al. (1999) found that as the freezer barrel temperature was lowered, the nucleation rate increased accordingly. Cook & Hartel (2011) simulated ice cream freezing in an ice cream machine by freezing ice cream mix in a thin layer on a microscope cold stage. The temperature at which ice cream mix was frozen on the cold stage varied from -7, -10, -15, and -20°C (19, 14, 5, and -4°F). They found that warmer freezing temperatures gave more elongated and slightly larger crystals with a wider size distribution.
To promote rapid nucleation and minimise recrystallisation, the temperature of the refrigerant, which is R404a in the Nemox 5K Crea, should fall within the range of -23°C to -29°C (-10°F to -20°F) (Goff & Hartel, 2013), with the freezer barrel wall temperature estimated to be a few degrees warmer.
How cold does the barrel get?
I’ve found that the freezing system in the Nemox 5K Crea is able to get the freezer barrel wall temperature down to -29°C (-20.2°F) when empty. This compares to a freezer barrel wall temperature of -32°C (-25.6°F) in my Emery Thompson CB-200.
Is the barrel removable?
Nope. The Nemox 5K Crea has a 3.2 litre (3.38 quart) non-removable 304 stainless steel barrel that is vertically set into the housing unit. I haven’t had any issues with using or cleaning this non-removable barrel.
2.4 Draw Temperature
The draw temperature is the temperature at which ice cream is removed from the barrel once dynamic freezing is complete. In commercial machines, this is usually -5°C to -6°C (23°F to 21.2°F) (Goff & Hartel, 2013). Draw temperature significantly influences mean ice crystal size because it determines how much water is frozen during dynamic freezing and, consequently, how many ice crystals are formed. Caillet et al. (2003) found that decreasing the draw temperature resulted in more water being frozen and increased ice crystal content. The more ice crystals that are formed during dynamic freezing, the more will be preserved during static freezing, resulting in a smaller average crystal size and smoother texture (Cook & Hartel, 2010). Drewett & Hartel (2007) showed that ice crystals were larger at draw temperatures from -3°C to -6°C (26.6°F to 21.2°F). When the draw temperatures were colder than -6°C (21.2°F), the mean ice crystal size decreased.
Low Temperature Extrusion
Bolliger (1996) and Windhab et al. (2001) investigated the influence of Low Temperature Extrusion (LTE) freezing of ice cream, where ice cream exiting the SSF at -5°C to -6°C (23°F to 21.2°F) is frozen further to about -13°C to -15°C (8.6°F to 5°F) in an extruder with slowly rotating screws, on the ice crystal size in comparison to conventional draw temperatures. It was shown that the mean ice crystal size was reduced by a factor of 2 by means of the LTE process compared to conventional freezing. Sensorial properties like consistency, melting behaviour, coldness, and scoopability also showed clearly improved values (Windhab, 2001).
Besides the ice crystal size, the size and distribution of air cells and fat globules are of primary importance, especially on the sensorial aspect of creaminess. To obtain creamier ice cream, it’s important to generate ice crystals, air cells, and fat globule aggregates as small as possible (Wildmoser et al., 2004). LTE helps to prevent air bubbles from coming together, thereby retaining the smallest size distribution (Eisner et al., 2005). Air Bubbles in the 10-15 μm range have been reported in LTE frozen ice cream, compared to conventionally frozen ice cream samples with bubbles in the 40-70 μm range (Bolliger et al., 2000b). LTE also helps to reduce the size of agglomerated fat globules compared to conventionally frozen ice cream (Windhab & Bolliger, 1998a, b). Furthermore, LTE generally promotes enhanced fat destabilisation, which is partially responsible for slow melting and good shape retention (Bolliger et al., 2000b). The percentage of the fat droplets destabilisation in the LTE treated ice cream can be twice that achieved during the conventional freezing process (Soukoulis & Fisk, 2016).
Because of smaller air bubble and fat globule aggregates sizes, as well as a higher degree of foam stability (fat globule destabilisation), LTE ice cream is evaluated creamier than conventionally produced ice cream (Wildmoser et al., 2004). What I’ve found during testing is that ice cream extracted at draw temperatures of around -12.1°C (10.22°F) is indeed perceived as being slightly creamier than that extracted at conventional draw temperatures of around -6°C (21.2°F).
Vertical Barrels vs Horizontal Barrels
What I’ve learnt from operating my Emery Thompson CB-200 this summer is that ice cream frozen in an ice cream machine with a horizontal barrel is limited to draw temperatures of between -5°C to -6°C (23°F to 21.2°F); lower draw temperatures produce stiffer ice cream that does not flow readily and therefore can’t be conventionally extracted through the opening in the front plate. Instead, the front plate has to be unscrewed and the remaining ice cream scooped out. At a draw temperature of -3°C (26.6°F), I’ve found that about 8% of the mix, about 211g of a 2496g mix, remains in my CB-200 after conventional extraction. At a draw temperature of -7°C (19.4°F), however, I’ve found that about 39% of the mix, about 900g of a 2303g mix, remains in the barrel after conventional extraction.
One advantage of the vertical barrel in the 5k Crea that I’ve found is that it’s able to freeze ice cream to a low draw temperature of -12.1°C (10.22°F), which can then be easily extracted by lifting the hinged lid and scooping with a large spoon. I’ve found that between 9% and 15%, 113g and 188g, of a 1.25kg mix remains in the barrel after extraction, mostly stuck to, or under, the dasher.
Extraction Time
I’ve also learnt that wastage is an inevitable part of the ice cream making process; it’s impossible to extract every last gram from the barrel. During extraction, it’s important to balance trying to minimise wastage with minimising the extraction time. The longer it takes to extract ice cream from the barrel and get it into a freezer for static hardening, the longer it spends at relatively warm room temperatures where recrystallisation and growth occur very rapidly. The greater the extent of recrystallisation and growth, the larger the ice crystals are likely to be. It takes me about 1 minute and 30 seconds to extract my ice cream from the 5K Crea. I’ve found that switching the compressor off during extraction makes things easier.
2.5 Residence Time
Residence time, which refers to the length of time ice cream spends in the barrel and takes to reach its draw temperature, has a significant effect on the final ice crystal size distribution, with shorter residence times producing ice creams with smaller ice crystals due to a decline in recrystallisation (Russell et al., 1999; Koxholt et al., 2000; Goff & Hartel, 2013; Drewett & Hartel, 2007; Cook & Hartel, 2010). Longer residence times mean that ice cream spends more time in the bulk zone of the barrel where warmer temperatures cause rapid recrystallisation. Donhowe & Hartel (1996) measured a recrystallisation rate at -5°C (23°F) of 42 μm/day. At this rate, a size increase of around 8 μm would be expected over a 10 minute period. This matches almost exactly the increase in crystal size observed by Russell et al. (1999) at a slightly different temperature of -4°C (24.8°F). Clearly, the longer ice cream remains in the barrel at temperatures where recrystallisation occurs very rapidly, the greater the extent of recrystallisation and the larger the ice crystals.
A high rate of heat transfer and colder barrel wall temperatures contribute significantly to shorter residence times. Lower barrel wall temperatures lower the bulk temperature of the ice cream faster, reducing residence time and improving the ice crystal size distribution (Russell et al., 1999; Drewett & Hartel, 2007). Investigating the effect of draw temperature, dasher speed, and residence time on ice crystal size, Drewett & Hartel (2007) concluded that residence time had the greatest impact on final crystal size distribution, followed by drawing temperature and dasher speed.
How long does the Nemox 5K Crea take to freeze a batch of ice cream?
I’ve found that it takes an impressive 12 minutes to freeze a 1.25kg, 1120 ml (1.18 quart), batch of ice cream to a draw temperature of between -10°C and -12.1°C (14°F and 10.22°F).
How much ice cream does the Nemox 5K Crea make?
Although the instruction manual states that the maximum ingredients quantity is 1.25 kg, 1120 ml (1.18 quart), of ice cream mix, I’ve managed to freeze 1527g, about 1500ml (1.59 quart), of ice cream mix, producing about 1600ml (1.69 quart) of ice cream with about 7% air. This bigger batch did, however, require an increased residence time of 15 minutes to achieve a draw temperature of between -8.6°C and -11.3°C (16.5°F and 11.66°F).
Can the Nemox 5K Crea make 1 quart or less test batches?
Yes I’ve found that the 5K Crea is able to freeze 617g, just under 500ml (0.53 quart), test batches, which is useful when testing new recipes. It took me 8 minutes to freeze 617g of ice cream mix to a draw temperature of between -11°C and -14°C (12.2°F and 6.8°F), which had the same thick and creamy consistency as the the larger 1.25kg, 1120 ml (1.18 quart), batches.
Can the Nemox 5K Crea freeze batches back-to-back?
Yes it can freeze batches back-to-back. To test this, I froze 5 batches each weighing 1.25kg, 1120 ml (1.18 quart), back-to-back. Each batch had a residence time of 13 minutes and was extracted at a draw temperature of -8°C to -11°C (17.6°F to 12.2°F). The machine was in near continuous use for 1 hour and 15 minutes, with the freezing system and dasher switched off for about 2 minutes between each batch to allow for extraction. The freezing system did not overheat, nor did batches take progressively longer to freeze
Automatic Mode
The Nemox 5K Crea has a series of programs which automate the freezing process. This means that the dasher stops rotating after the ice cream mix has frozen to a pre-set consistency. These programs are classic Italian gelato and sorbet; semi-soft gelato; granita; and the fast cooling program. The latter is used to quickly cool mixes after pasteurisation. There are also 4 preservation cycles available for each of the automatic freezing modes (total of 16 cycles) that keep frozen ice cream at a constant temperature after freezing. I haven’t yet tried these automatic or preservation programs because I prefer to control the freezing stage myself.
3. General Questions
What are the dimensions, Weight, and Voltage?
The Nemox 5k Crea measures 465mm (18.3″) in width, 480 (18.9″) mm in depth, and 395 mm (15.6″) in height, and weighs 34 kg (75 pounds). I needed help getting it onto my table when it arrived and wouldn’t say that it’s a machine that can be easily moved. Here in the U.K, it runs on 220-240v 50Hz single phase electrical power, which means it can be plugged into a standard 3 pin plug and doesn’t require 3-phase power. In the U.S it’s 120v 60Hz. It draws 650 watts and is air cooled.
What is the Warranty?
Here in the U.K, it has a 1-year manufacturer’s warranty against defects in material or workmanship. On-site warranty repair is included in the warranty. I contacted amazon regarding the warranty in the U.S and received this reply:
Eligible warranty for Nemox home equipment is handled by 1st-line Equipment or representative thereof. If you have purchased your equipment from another retailer (not 1st-line Equipment), you must contact them first in order to get your equipment serviced under warranty. The warranty is limited to manufacturer’s defects only. The manufacturer’s warranty is good for a period of 1 year from date of receipt, which covers parts. Labor warranties may vary depending on the company you purchase from. Nemox products may have an extended warranty limited to manufacturer’s defects and will specifically state the extended period of time on your receipt. In most cases, your Nemox equipment must be sent to a repair facility. If you are getting your equipment serviced by 1st-line Equipment, you must either ship it or drop off at our facility in New Jersey.
Maintenance
The instruction manual advises that the ventilation grids on the rear and the bottom of the machine be cleaned at least once a year. It also states that the oil seal on top of the transmission shaft in the centre of the barrel be checked regularly (at least once every 3 months). If necessary, it is to be replace or lubricated with H1 category grease or higher. I got an oil seal replacement supplied with my machine.
Is it Noisy?
This machine is incredibly quiet . It produces 83 dB of noise when in operation and I haven’t had any problems with sitting in the room with it in operation.
Is it easy to clean?
Besides the incredibly dense and creamy ice cream, the feature I have been most impressed by is the small drainage hole inside the barrel, which makes cleaning very quick and easy. To clean the barrel, I fill it with about 1 litre (1.06 quart) of boiling water, place a 2 litre (2.1 quart) bowl under the drain pipe located on the front panel, and then drain the diluted ice cream mix by removing the long drain plug that covers the drainage pipe. I then remove the dasher and scraper blades and use a sponge and detergent to wipe the barrel, before rinsing 2-3 times more with boiling water. After sanitising and rinsing, I use kitchen towels to dry the barrel, and insert the washed plug back in the drain pipe. Cleaning takes me no more than 5 minutes. The dasher, scraper blades, and plastic lid are also dishwasher safe.
Does the Nemox 5k Crea make good ice cream?
Yes I’ve found that the Nemox 5K Crea makes exceptional ice cream that is extremely thick, dense, and creamy. This creamy texture is, in part, a result of the smaller ice crystals, air bubbles, and fat globule aggregates, as well as the higher degree of foam stability (fat globule destabilisation), that result from low draw temperatures of between -10°C and -12.1°C (14°F and 10.22°F), as well as the short 12 minute residence time. A sensory panel of 5 untrained assessors (the 5 carpenters who share the building my kitchen unit is in and have kindly volunteered to be my taste testers) described the ice cream as ‘dense’, ‘thick’, and ‘really creamy’, and as ‘melting slowly in the mouth’.
4. My only complaint
My only complaint about this machine is that the dasher could be better designed to disperse the mix against the cold barrel wall as it freezes. I’ve noticed that as the ice cream mix starts to harden, it tends to clump against the dasher in the centre of the barrel where warmer temperatures cause rapid recrystallisation and growth. I’ve noticed that after 12 minutes of freezing, ice cream in the centre of the barrel is at temperatures between -9°C and -10°C (15.8°F and 14°F), whereas ice cream closer to the cold barrel wall is -12.1°C (10.22°F). Despite the uneven freezing, I haven’t found the warmer ice cream in the centre of the barrel any less creamy than ice cream closer to the barrel wall.
I also don’t like the fact that the dasher stops rotating when I open the lid to check the temperature of my ice cream; this is because of a magnetic safety device installed in the lid. Having the dasher stop during freezing causes ice cream to freeze to the barrel wall, which then adds stress to the motor system when I shut the lid and the dasher restarts.
5. Summary
After nearly 1 month of testing, I’ve found that the Nemox 5K Crea* produces exceptional ice cream that is thick, dense, and extremely creamy. The vertical freezer barrel is able to freeze ice cream to draw temperatures of between -10°C and -12.1°C (14°F and 10.22°F), producing ice cream with smaller ice crystals, air bubbles, and fat globule aggregates that is perceived creamier than ice cream extracted at conventional draw temperatures of -5°C and -6°C (23°F and 21.2°F). It has a maximum capacity of 1.25kg, or 1120 ml (1.18 quart), of ice cream mix, producing about 1200 ml (1.27 quart) of ice cream with about 7% air in 12 minutes, although I’ve managed to freeze 1527g, about 1500ml (1.59 quart) of ice cream mix, producing about 1600ml (1.69 quart) of ice cream with about 7% air in 15 minutes. I’ve also been impressed by the drainage hole inside the barrel, which makes cleaning quick and easy. My only complaint is that the dasher could be better designed to disperse the mix as it freezes. This would prevent ice cream from clumping in the centre of the barrel, thereby reducing ice crystal growth and recrystallisation.
I hope this review helps. I’d be happy to answer any questions and would love some BRUTALLY HONEST feedback on this review so please do feel free to get in touch and say hi! Ruben 🙂
6. What The * Means
Transparency is key. On that note, I haven’t been paid to write this review, nor was I given this machine for free. I paid for this bad boy with my own money and have written this review in my own time. If there is a * after a link, it means that I will earn a payment if you go through it and make a purchase on amazon. This doesn’t increase the cost of what you purchase, nor do these links influence what I write, ever.
References
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Ben Lakhdar, M., Cerecero, R., Alvarez, G., Guilpart, J., Flick, D., and Lallemand, A., 2005. Heat transfer with freezing in a scraped surface heat exchanger. Applied Thermal Engineering. 25(1), 45–60.
Berger, K. G,, Bullimore, B. K., White, G. W., and Wright, W. B., 1972. The structure of ice cream – Part 1. Dairy Industries, 37(8), 419-425.
Bolliger, S., 1996. Freeze structuring in food systems under mechanical energy input. Dissertation no. 11914, Department of Food Science, ETH, ZuK rich, Switzerland.
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Sofjan, R., P., and Hartel, R. W., 2004. Effects of overrun on structural and physical characteristics of ice cream. International Dairy Journal. 14, 255-262.
Soukoulis, C., and Fisk, I., 2016. Innovative Ingredients and Emerging Technologies for Controlling Ice Recrystallization, Texture, and Structure Stability in Frozen Dairy Desserts: A Review, Critical Reviews in Food Science and Nutrition, 56:15, 2543-2559,
Wildmoser, H., Scheiwiller, J., and Windhab, E. J., 2004. Impact of disperse microstructure on rheology and quality aspects of ice cream. Food Sci. Technol. 37:881–891.
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Cuisinart ICE-30 Ice Cream Maker – A Comprehensive Review
The role of fat in ice cream
Hi there, thanks for your comprehensive review.
One question: regarding the quality of the ice cream coming out of the Nemox 5K, how does that compare to what the Musso 5030 produces? You mention both of them make “exceptional” ice cream, but I was wondering if there’s still a noticeable difference.
Gday Ruben,
Thanks for such a detailed site, awesome work. Whats your view on other models such as Nemox Gelato pro 2000 and 2500SP and Chef 5L. Comparing with Musso now, looking to buy something decent at home. After reading some comments on sorbetto with the Musso, sounds like I needed a more powerful compressor. Having just finished the gelato courses at Caprigiani, totally blown away how good sorbetto can be!
I purchased the Musso Stella 6 months ago and I am very satisfied. I would not worry that much over which compressor is the strongest. The Nemox is, according to Ruben, a (little?) bit stronger but that does not mean the Musso compressor is weak! And also consider that the Nemox costs three/four times as much and without having tested it myself I am pretty sure that you do not get a three times better ice cream machine. In my opinion in the price range Musso is unbeatable. Nemox with the same capity (2500SP) is almost twice the price of the Stella. If you are going all in and treating yourself with some very nice machines (if you have the money and the space) I would go for the Telme Gel5/10 or the Frigomat G5/10. They are not that more expensive (Telme Gel5 4000 Euros) than the Nemox but they look incredibly sturdy and nice and really professional 🙂
Hey Ken,
Thanks for getting in touch. I haven’t tested the Gelato pro 2000, 2500SP, or Chef 5L so don’t know how much help I can be there.
If you’re keen on making sorbet, I’d recommend looking into the Pacojet. It doesn’t have the biggest capacity but I’ve heard that it’s excellent for sorbet because of the smaller ice crystals it forms.
I haven’t tried making sorbet in the Musso Pola 5030 but my guess is that it would do a pretty good job, as long as you had a decent recipe high in solids.
Hope that helps. Let me know if you have any other questions.
All the best,
Ruben
Hi, thanks for the great review. I have recently bought a twin version of this machine.
I wanted to ask whether you are aware of a book or a website or any other source with commercial gelato recipes?
thaks in advance.
The Spanish So Good Magasine has released books with all the receipies from the magasines. These books are very good and highly recommendable:
http://www.sogoodmagazine.com/pastry-books/ice-cream-artisanal-ice-cream-recipe-book/
http://www.sogoodmagazine.com/pastry-books/so-good-recipes-2/
http://www.sogoodmagazine.com/pastry-books/so-good-recipes-recipe-collection-haute-patisserie/
http://www.sogoodmagazine.com/pastry-blog/grupo-vilbo/grupo-vilbo-launch-the-first-great-artisanal-ice-cream-recipe-book/
thanks a lot for the suggestions Peter. am going to check them out asap!
Hi there Pouyah,
Thanks for getting in touch. I haven’t come across any books or resources with some good gelato recipes as I haven’t yet done much research into gelato. I’m going to try and develop a gelato recipe in the next few months and will post on the blog when I finish. I should also hopefully have some gelato book recommendations by then.
Sorry I can’t be of much help just yet.
All the best,
Ruben
no problem, thanks for the reply,.
I have another question and I would appreciate if you found time to answer; apparently the typical overrun of most Gelato machines is around 30-40-% while this machine which has been advertised as a professional gelato machine, has only 7% overrun. aside from the quality of the gelato it produces, my biggest concern is that how am I supposed to compete in a market where other batch freezers produce such airy icecreams. the profit from selling 40-60 percent air is not comparable to only 7 percent. I am baffled as to why purchasing this machine for business even makes sense. I have bought it yes, but on my budget and in my country where the diversity of gelato machines is very limited, there was not much of other choice to be honest.
is there something that I am missing?
also, is there any other way to make the icecream more airy? problem is that you couldn’t even argue that making a more dense icecream equals a better quality. apparently most ppl prefer the texture and taste of an airier one.
thanks in advance.
Hi again Pouyah,
That’s a very good question. Yes you’re right that ice cream with between 7-10% air won’t be as profitable as that containing 40-100% air. With all the domestic and commercial machines that I’ve tried, the feedback that I consistently got from the people that tried the ice cream made in each machine was that they always preferred ice cream with a low overrun (7-30%) to that with a higher overrun. I think you are making a mistake if you’re assuming that a lower overrun means lesser quality.
If you do want to increase overrun in your 5K, you can process your mix with an electric whisk for around 10-30 seconds before you add it to the 5K. The more time you whisk, the more air will be incorporated.
Hope that helps.
Ruben
yes, that it does! interesting feedback regarding the low overrun, gave me some hope! thanks a lot for your time Ruben.
No worries. Let me know if you need a hand with anything else.
All the best,
Ruben
Ruben, thank you for posting this fantastic review. I am actually considering purchasing this machine. Have you tried making granita with it? Curious to know how it worked out for you.
Hi there Fabrizio!
Thanks for getting in touch. I have only tried making ice cream in the 5K but I’m pretty sure it will also make good sorbet and granita as long as you use a good recipe. If you can stretch your budget, I’d also recommend going with the Nemox 6K over the 5K because of the bigger freezer bowl and variable dasher speed.
Hope that helps. Let me know if you have any other questions.
All the best,
Ruben
Hi Ruben
Based on your post here im going to get the same machine. One of the things im curious about is the process of making the gelato. I read many recipes over the net and what confuses me is this; when i contact nemox reseller in my country, the sales representative said that in order to make good gelato i have to use emulsifiers and stabilizers whereas recipes online they didnt mention any use of emulsifiers or stabilizers. Whats your take on this matter?
Thanks Ruben
Hi there Rhomy,
Thanks for getting in touch. Are you looking to get a machine to produce ice cream/gelato to sell or just at home? If you’re looking to sell your ice cream/gelato and can stretch your budget, I’d recommend going with the 6K over the 5K because of the larger freezer bowl and variable dasher speed. If not, the 5K is a good choice.
You can make perfectly good gelato without stabilisers and emulsifiers, these two ingredients just make the process cheaper and easier. Egg yolks have a similar effect to emulsifiers, so I’d strongly recommend using these. Stabilisers are added to limit ice crystal growth during storage and temperature fluctuations, which means that you can store gelato for longer. If you’re making gelato at home and not planning on storing it for over a few days, you will be fine without stabilisers. Stabilisers also help produce a thicker gelato mix, which is important for texture. You can also increase the thickness of the mix, or increase mix viscosity, by heating your mix for 30 to 60 minutes at 72°C. Making nut or chocolate flavours will also be easier because of the increased solids and fat from these ingredients. Flavours where you don’t add solids, like vanilla, make it a little more difficult to get smooth and creamy texture.
I’m working on a gelato recipe at the moment and will post the recipe on the blog when I’m happy with it. I’ve managed to get smooth and creamy texture using cream, milk, sugar, maltodextrin (similar to glucose syrup), and egg yolks, but it has a bit of an off flavour because I’m using too much maltodextrin.
Hope that makes sense. Let me know if you have any other questions.
All the best,
Ruben
There is not anything wrong in using stabilisers and/or emulsifiers. My experience is that the thickening effect of the stabilisers gives a better short-term consistency in reducing ice crystal size compared to just freezing a “thin” ice cream mix.
Why do you “strongly” recommend using emulsifiers from eggs instead of industrial emulsifiers? Because they are natural? The latter are much more effective and even though they are semi-synthetic what is the difference from when you heat up the ice cream mix for 30-60 minuttes? Here you also make chemical modifications so the “naturalness” is gone 🙂
And regarding the method by heating up to 72 °C for 30-60 minuttes. It is cumbersome unless you have a magnetic stirrer and a temperature controlled water bath in which to immerse the bowl with the ice cream mix. And you need to weigh the bowl before and after and add water to compensate for evaporation.
There is of course nothing wrong with your method but I doubt it is better than adding emulsifiers/stabilisers.
Hi Peter,
Yes you’re right that there is nothing wrong with using stabilisers or emulsifiers. I strongly recommend using egg yolks to industrial emulsifiers simply because I think the latter have a negative connotation and are usually associated with lower quality ice cream. Egg yolks also give ice cream a rich custard flavour, which I like. Saying that, industrial emulsifiers are better than the lecithin in egg yolks at promoting partial coalescence of the fat in an ice cream mix and a lot cheaper than using egg yolks.
Yes denaturing the protein by prolonged heating is very cumbersome without an overhead stirrer and hot plate. I guess it is down to the ice cream producer to decide which ingredients go into their mix, and how long they want the process to take. You can make great ice cream with minimal ingredients but takes a long time to make, or you can make great ice cream with stabilisers and emulsifiers that doesn’t take as long to make.
All the best,
Ruben
I think the Frigomat G10 is near by the Nemox 6K.
The Frigomat G10 has a load per cycle 2,5 kg and the power is 1 kW (1000Watt).
So the Frigomat G10 has more power as the Nemox 6k but less electronic!
Only the interesting thing by the Nemox 6k is :”An electronic inverter system for the control and regulation of the motor enables to vary the number of rpms of the blade (from 55 to 115 rpm) to achieve desired results.”.
But I think the price different between the Nemox 6K and the Frigomat G10 is near by 2000 Euro!!
hi Ruben, have you made an youtube/review video of the cream ice cream maker? like you used to do?
Hi there, I haven’t made of the Nemox 5K but I do have a few videos laying around somewhere that I can put up youtube. Let me know if you need these.
All the best,
Ruben
Hi Ruben,
I have a question about the freezer. I found a freezer has temperature range between -15C to -45C. Do you think it is necessary to set the temperature to the lowest? Of course this freezer is a bit above my budget. Or you suggest the household refrigerator (lowest -18C) is good enough for a small business.
Thanks!
Summer
Hi Summer,
Temperatures below -25°C are ideal for storing ice cream because they reduce ice crystallisation during storage. This would be more important if you are planning on storing your ice cream for a few weeks before serving it. How long are you planning on storing your ice cream? If it’s not too much more, I’d go for the colder freezer.
Hope that helps.
Ruben
Hi Ruben.
Thank you for this review!! 🙂 I have yet to find any review og unbiased mentioning of any professional Nemox ice cream maker anywhere on the internet. Very interesting read. Do you by change have any knowledge of the two smaller pro machines Gelato Pro 2000/2500?
Cheers
Peter
Hi again Peter!
I haven’t tried the smaller Pro machines, sorry. The 5K is the only Nemox I’ve tried. I’m also going to try and get my hands on their 12K machine later in the year.
All the best,
Ruben
Hi! I’m currently using Gelato Pro 2500. It is good if you are making smaller batch for say 8-10 people but i won’t recommend if you get it for business purposes. (if you don’t mind doing in many batches like me!).
Pros: Lighter, compact/portable, reasonably priced, makes great gelato and sorbet (as good as shop quality!) and good for shops that requires limited production needs.
Cons: The lid is made of plastic (can move/shake easily at the end process)/ technically you can only process around 900g as the mixture will overflow as the lid is flimsy ,have to manually control your gelato mixture from the start to the end (using the manual timer), only make smaller batches around 900g as heats quite fast (give it a 10 mins rest each interval), like what Reuben pointed out, the dasher issue as it can create larger ice crystals to your gelato and a bit of effort to clean the fixed bowl unless you use the removable bowl.
I’ve been using it for 2 years despite all the cons.ha! Nevertheless,Nemox makes great gelato regardless any range. Their differences are just better compressor, denser and thicker gelato and the time taken to process the gelato, machine body (finishing) and production litres.
Hi Ruben,
Thank you for your review. I own the same (5K Sc with 600Watt) ice cream maker from Nemox.
Indeed it’s a professional grade machine, very expensive, but with a very strong compressor. Normally I make a batch of ice cream in 8-10 minutes. And the ice cream is very good. btw I have an aeration of 25%.
Only the motor mechanism sounds a little bit cheap in my opinion. It sounds better than the Musso, but for an ice cream maker with a price of more than 2000 euro’s I expect a more durable mechanism. Also after 20 minutes I found that the left corner of the ice cream maker is very warm, the place of the motor, but that seems not to be a problem.
About the scrappers, in my opinion they are not strong enough to scratch the ice of the wall. After 5-6 minutes you see more and more hardened ice cream on the wall, maybe 1-2mm, but it becomes stressfull for the motor, You can hear it, especially when you make smaller amounts of ice cream.
A few months ago I asked our importer for the Benelux for replacement scratchers. The price was 60 euros, exclusive VAT for 2 plastic scratchers!!!! ( I think real production costs 20cents each). Not a very good service from Nemox, I would say.
Conclusion: a semi professional grade Ice cream maker, but too expensive. Compressor is very good, Dasher and motor reasonable. Further I found the after sales service of Nemox not customert friendly. 60euros exclusive of VAT for a set of scratchers is a shame! Musso is far cheaper and nearly so good. I think they can sell cheaper, because of their bigger volumes
Greetings Ed
Hi there Ed!
Thanks for getting in touch. Thank you for that feedback on your 5K, very useful 🙂
How long have you had your 5K and have you had any problems with it? Have you had any problems with the motor mechanism? Yes I’ve also found that the left side of the machine gets warm. I’m guessing it’s the direction the internal fans blow the warm air to cool the compressor.
It is very disappointing to hear that the price for replacement scrapers is 60 euros, exclusive of VAT! How long did your scrapers last before they started to wear out? Have you tried contacting Nemox directly to see if you can get replacement scrapers cheaper from them? I got a spare set with my machine, did you only get 1 set with yours?
All the best,
Ruben
Hello Ed, I have the Musso Stella. I’m considering buying a second ice cream machine. I think I will stick with the Musso. For the price of the Nemox I would want very little ice cream building up on the wall. Sounds like too many flaws for the price… Pity the Germans don’t make high grade ice cream makers!
Hello Julian, I find the Nemox too expensive. Indeed the compressor is stronger than the Musso Stella, also the motor and scratchers are maybe a little bit better, but don’t expect a real professional grade ice Cream maker.
Also, I found a little bit disappointing that the motor seems too weak, when the ice Cream mix hardens, you can hear more and more motor stress. Maybe, not a real problem, but for the price, I expected a stronger motor mechanism.
Musso is relatively cheaper, they make a few models in large volumes. If I was you I should buy a second Musso Stella. They are the money more than worth.
One question: what is your aeration percentage with the Musso Stella?
Amazing all the scientific background you refer to. For the price of the machine the company could have given coil springed scrapers. I think that is what distinguishes the professional machines mainly from the home use ones.
Was wondering why there is no third scraper on the vertical. For the machine stopping use a magnet.
Is the bottom of the cylinder cooled or only the sides ?
Keep up the great work.
Are you running your business with this machine ?
Hi there Henning!
Thanks for getting in touch. Yes I agree that the scraper blades are somewhat underwhelming. That’s a good question. My guess is that there is no third scraper on the shorter vertical arm because the arm doesn’t get as close to the barrel wall as the larger vertical arm and so would require a thick scraper blade. Yes the bottom of the barrel is also cooled but I’ve found that the side gets colder. I’m currently using this machine for my business but am considering upgrading to the bigger Nemox 10k.
Hope that helps. Let me know if you have any other questions.
All the best,
Ruben
Hi Ruben.
Have you considered upgrading to the bigger Musso, Club or Consul, instead of the 10k?
Cheers
Peter
Hi there Peter!
Thanks for getting in touch. I have looked at the Musso Club and Consul but I didn’t like the look of the dasher and the 30/40 minute preparation time. I’ve also found the drain hole in the 5K extremely useful for cleaning, which the Musso machines don’t have. Are you considering one of the larger Musso machines?
All the best,
Ruben
Hi Ruben 🙂
It would be nice with a machine in this class but the price is too high for my needs. It is strange that the Musso is relatively slower than the big Nemox machines but the Mussos are also priced lower.
Cheers
/Peter
Great post lots of information. What I got from this is that’s a great ice cream maker but the Musso Stella 5030 still has the edge as the best home commercial ice cream maker. Would I be right?
Hi there Julian!
Long time no speak. I would put the 5K ahead of the 5030 because of the shorter freezing time, better heat transfer because of the scraper blades that fit securely against the barrel, and the ease of cleaning. The 5K does cost more than 3 times the 5030 though!
Hope that answers your question.
All the best,
Ruben
Been well and you? It’s 4 times the price! Couldn’t see it being that much better I’m happy to spend an extra 1 minute cleaning my 5030. Not a fan of the attached lid ether and and the dasher stopping when you open the lid. Not sure anyone would notice the difference in quality between the two except an expert like you! 🙂
All good here cheers, moving slowly but surely. Yes I do wonder whether 4 times the price gets you 4 times the quality!
Hi Ruben, had a couple questions about this unit. Is 1750 grams maximum weight you can pour into this machine? Also is there any problems with the drain pipe getting dirty from old custard drying on the downpipe?
Also not sure if you make clotted cream at all. Can I use double cream to make clotted cream? If yes what is the new fat percentage of the clotted cream that raises to the top? My double cream is a minimum 50% milk fat.
Thanks Ruben!
Hi again Julian,
The maximum I’ve frozen is 1527g of mix, although Nemox suggest not going over 1250g. The Nemox 6K has a maximum capacity of 1750g, although I suspect this may be larger; is this what you’re thinking of? So far no problems with the drain pipe getting dirty as I make sure that I pour boiling water directly into the hole in the barrel after rinsing.
That’s a good question re the clotted cream. I’ve never tried making it myself so don’t have the slightest idea, sorry.
Hope that helps.
All the best,
Ruben
I’m very surprised you haven’t made it considering you’re in the UK! I love the sweet nutty flavour it has. A recipe for the future ?
Here some ice cream flavours you might like:
Kokutou (Okinawan black sugar)
Yomogi (Japanese mugwort)
Smoked salt maple brown butter
Pine nut (infused in the milk)
Not sure what flavour to use with clotted cream that won’t override the clotted cream flavour. Today will try making vanilla bean clotted cream will let you know how it goes.
🙂
Excellent. Very nice text. So rich in information. Thanks
🙂